While I can't offer uber-technical reason, some commen sense reasons jump to mind: 1. if the device being protected shorts to ground, then a fuse on the neutral side would not blow, thus not protecting the device and wiring. 2. it's better sense to put the fuse as close to the main power as possible, like to a main breaker or meter, so that if the fuse does have to blow, more line is unenergized, decreasing the likely hood of further equipment damage or even personal injury. 3. if the fuse is on the neutral side and it blows, how do you know which device made the fuse blow? trouble shooting is more complicated as you have to test more devices. 4. with my limited understanding of multi phase power, the total current 'seen' through the neutral is often less than the current through each phase, so the device that fails could do much more damage by having to blow a fuse on the neutral side. note: reason 4 is up for debate as I'm not sure I'm correct, it's only what I have understood from some reading.
When the fuse blows under fault conditions it could leave a dangerous situation because the live wire is still connected to parts of the equipment, so it could be dangerous even if it doesn't run.
The fuse must be on the live side to make the equipment safe when the supply is cut off.
The fuse (or circuit breaker) must open the hot line to prevent an unsafe condition resulting from voltage still being present in the circuit. The hot line could short to something and still cause a fire or it could electrocute a person. Just breaking the current loop via the neutral is not enough for safety!
a neutral is a grounded phase there for does not need to be fused
No. Neutral is grounded at the distribution panel and, as such, is not normally fused.
The formula to use is, phase voltage /1.73 = phase to neutral (ground) voltage.CommentThere is no such thing as a 'phase to phase', or 'phase to neutral' voltage. The correct terms are 'line to line' and 'line to neutral'. So the above answer should read: line voltage/1.73= line to neutral voltage = phase voltage.
From line-to-line (any two of the three leads) voltage or 'line voltage', the voltage is 208 V. The line-to-neutral (one of the three leads and the neutral conductor), or 'phase voltage', is 120 V.
There is never a switch installed in a neutral line.
Neutral, by definition, is grounded at the distribution panel, and also at the distribution pole. That is how the hot to ground voltages are prevented from exceeding their normal voltage and encroaching on truly lethal voltages, such as 7.6kV in a typical US 13.2kV system, in a wye configuration.Note: and this is critical, do not depend on the fact that neutral is grounded and consider that it is the same as protective earth ground. It is not. Protective earth ground is a different wire.
If the meter is sensitive enough and there is a resistance between the neutral and ground then the meter should be able to detect it.
The breaker feeding the line will trip or if it is a fused circuit the line fuse will blow open. In regards to fuses protecting the line sometimes two line fuses will blow.
The formula to use is, phase voltage /1.73 = phase to neutral (ground) voltage.CommentThere is no such thing as a 'phase to phase', or 'phase to neutral' voltage. The correct terms are 'line to line' and 'line to neutral'. So the above answer should read: line voltage/1.73= line to neutral voltage = phase voltage.
From line-to-line (any two of the three leads) voltage or 'line voltage', the voltage is 208 V. The line-to-neutral (one of the three leads and the neutral conductor), or 'phase voltage', is 120 V.
There is normally no voltage on the neutral line because the neutral line is grounded. However, and this is always important, do not assume that neutral is grounded, nor that there is not an elevated voltage on neutral or ground due to a possible ground fault.
There is never a switch installed in a neutral line.
The blue line is what separates the neutral zone from a team's offensive and defensive zones.
The AC wide prong is the neutral. An AC voltmeter measuring from narrow prong to ground should show line voltage; measurement from wide prong to ground should show zero. In a two-conductor power cord (and some three-conductor cords), the ridged side should be the neutral. In any light-bulb socket, the outer ridge should be wired to neutral.
Neutral, by definition, is grounded at the distribution panel, and also at the distribution pole. That is how the hot to ground voltages are prevented from exceeding their normal voltage and encroaching on truly lethal voltages, such as 7.6kV in a typical US 13.2kV system, in a wye configuration.Note: and this is critical, do not depend on the fact that neutral is grounded and consider that it is the same as protective earth ground. It is not. Protective earth ground is a different wire.
The car heater is a vague question. The heater core is not fused, it is like a mini radiator. The blower motor for heat/AC is fused. The selector blower motor resistor is fused in line with blower motor. Now if you lost heat, the water pump is belt driven, not fused.
should not be used
If the meter is sensitive enough and there is a resistance between the neutral and ground then the meter should be able to detect it.
Switch for neutral broken or not in correctly. It may operate a relay. Find it and see if it comes on and off with you switching the machine out of neutral and back. If it is fused check that. You can put your meter across the open fuse and watch the meter as you switch.