The AC wide prong is the neutral. An AC voltmeter measuring from narrow prong to ground should show line voltage; measurement from wide prong to ground should show zero. In a two-conductor power cord (and some three-conductor cords), the ridged side should be the neutral. In any light-bulb socket, the outer ridge should be wired to neutral.
so you don't get shocked
The neutral wire does carry current in a closed AC circuit. Clamp a clamp on amp meter around the neutral wire directly after the circuit load and it will read the same current as is on the "hot" wire.
yes, but the two 120v legs would have to come from breakers that are on the two different bus bars in the panel box, otherwise, you will get zero voltage between the two hot wires and 120 volts to neutral.
Put the meter on AC Volts, 200V range. For residential US service you should have 120V between hot and neutral, 120V between hot and ground, and 0V between neutral and ground. Remember: narrow prong is hot, wide prong is neutral, round prong is ground. Don't set your meter to current or you will zap it. Reisitance shouldn't damage it, but the reading will be worthless. (If you don't know what you are testing for or how to use your tool, should you really be sticking things in a wall outlet?)
There are no adptors to plug a 240v plug into a 120v receptacle. 240v requires two hot wores and a neutral and ground. 120v requires one hot wire, a neutral and a ground. If you have something that runs on 240/120 you need the cord and adaptor that came with the equipment as you willl need the wires to mate up accordingly.
Nominally 120 Volts.
so you don't get shocked
yes. on most marine and offshore rigs you can connect 22volt rated system L and neutral to 2 hot connection. 110v on L and 110v on neutral.
Zero, or very close to it. If there is a large neutral current flowing, voltage drop on the neutral leg could cause a volt or so to read between the two. If you read full line voltage, the outlet is wired wrong!
The neutral wire does carry current in a closed AC circuit. Clamp a clamp on amp meter around the neutral wire directly after the circuit load and it will read the same current as is on the "hot" wire.
The ordinary household AC power requires "hot" and "neutral" wires to both function properly. A failed neutral is a potentially dangerous condition.
yes, but the two 120v legs would have to come from breakers that are on the two different bus bars in the panel box, otherwise, you will get zero voltage between the two hot wires and 120 volts to neutral.
POSITIVE and NEGATIVE are Direct Current (DC) terms In Alternating Current (AC) terms it is: HOT-LEG (brass colored screw) and NEUTRAL (silver colored screw) On polarized plugs 120volts, the larger prong is the neutral
A 220 vac circuit has 2 hot wires and a neutral. The neutral stays at 0 volts and the hot wires vary between positive and negative. When one is positive, the other is negative.
Put the meter on AC Volts, 200V range. For residential US service you should have 120V between hot and neutral, 120V between hot and ground, and 0V between neutral and ground. Remember: narrow prong is hot, wide prong is neutral, round prong is ground. Don't set your meter to current or you will zap it. Reisitance shouldn't damage it, but the reading will be worthless. (If you don't know what you are testing for or how to use your tool, should you really be sticking things in a wall outlet?)
The neutral conductor is bonded to ground, and is therefore always at earth potential, which is the zero-reference for voltage.
A neutral line can carry both AC and DC. Just make sure that the AC or DC is unable to pass through any components connected to the neutral line.