03 Jeep Liberty ignition switch replacement?
This is fairly easy....remove the plastic covering around the steering column. This is accomplished by removing the two screws on the bottom, near the steering wheel. The ignition switch is on the right side, opposite the lock cylendar. The ignition switch is held in with one security screw. It is a T10 security torx. You will need to make sure the ignition switch is in the same position as the lock cylendar for correct re-assembly. The rest of re-assembly is, of corse, in reverse order.
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You did not clarify whether you meant the switch or the lock cylinder that drives the switch. Either way, it is a complex job that requires special tools and a high degree of …mechanical ability. In essence, you will have to remove the entire steering assembly if you need to replace the switch. If it is just the lock cylinder, it is considerably easier but still complex requiring removal of horn, turn sig, hazard and other assemblies. I have done this on an 89' and 93' Wrangler, a 94' shouldn't be much different. If you need details, e-mail me at: firstname.lastname@example.org...but to answer the question: It is not easy.
Cadi ignition switch . \nWell funny you should mention this. I am taking mine to Pic N Pull tomarrow to have it donw. There is a mechanic that will do it for $100. They …have a lot of good mechanics out there ask around. Otherwise the shop wanted $250 to $350. Good Luck.
Answer The best way to find out is go to your local auto parts store, ask for a haynes or chiltons manual on your vehicle. This will tell you everything you need to know abou…t working on your vehicle. Its a complicated job, uaually requires special tools to remove the steering column. its kinda a pain, but i had to do it as it was causing my GA's security feature to engage and not allow my car to start...i paid about $170 for a new ignition cylinder. had to remover the radio and parts that cover the steering column. removed wiring harness that go to the cylinder and used old keys to remove the cylinder.....then reverse order...hope that helps some
take it to the dealer and wait for the bill $$$$$$$$$$.
The ignition and column on the 89 Jeep Cherokee (similar to wrangler) is actually a GM design. There is a difference between the ignition switch and the ignition keylock. …Most people think the tumbler and lock are actually a switch, but there are no switch contacts on the end of the tumbler, like say in an older ford ignition switch. Having said that, I will interpret the question to be for remove and replace of the keylock. Before starting: Aquire these tools: Small philips and slotted screwdrivers (cheapy jewelers set) Regular philips and slotted screwdrivers SAE socket set with torx inserts Steering wheel puller - rent at the parts store or buy a cheap one ($12-$15) Lock ring compressor 1) remove the Negative battery clamp from the terminal 2) remove the horn cover plate on the steering wheel. The most common form this takes is 3 small self tapping screws accessible from the backside (ie closest to the instrument panel). 3) once the horn cover plate is out, you should be able to disconnect the horn by wiggling the spade terminals. One of the horn wires will "feed" thru the steering column and the other will be a disconnect to ground near the steering wheel nut. Once performed, you should have just the horn wire going in to the steering column 4) Using what will likely be a 13/16 socket (thin sparkplug socket) remove the nut on the steering shaft Mark a line on the hub and the shaft so you can be sure you're replacing it to the original position later. 5) Notice that you can't just pull the steering wheel right off, too much friction from the splined shaft holding the wheel 6) Looking straight down the steering wheel the wheel is attached with a hub. The steering shaft (a splnied shaft) is coming thru the center of the hub, and on the wheel hub itself, you will have two threaded holes on either side of the splined shaft. You will use these to leverage the wheel off the spline 7) the steering wheel puller will look like a bar or a "y". Both will use three holes to lever the wheel hub off of the shaft 8) The center hole on the puller will thread a center post, usualy one end is machine for use with a wrench or a socket, the other end will have a "cone" shape to it. This cone fits over (into) the end of the threaded shaft that you unscrewed the nut from in step 4 9) The idea in using the puller is to let the center post do the work of extracting the steering wheel off of the splined shaft 10) to do this, you must thread the center post into the center hole on the puller, then attach the properly sized bolts into the steering wheel hub. when doing this ensure the "cone" seats properly onto the end of the steering shaft 11) If you have done this correctly it will have two bolts threaded into the steering wheel hub and the center post is seated on the steering shaft 12) using smooth continuous force, rotate the center post so it pushes downward on the steering shaft, and in so doing the steering wheel will pull the wheel up the splined shaft. Repeat until the St.wheel comes of the steering shaft 13) put the steering wheel aside 14) you are now looking at the lock ring, a metal ring with "U" shaped cut outs around the outer diameter of the ring and the horn wire coming thru a plastic sleeve which is in an "L" shaped cut out on the ring 15) Now you need a lock ring compressor. The lock ring needs to be pushed down along the shaft, against the strong center spring which is behind the ring 16) by pushing the lock ring downward you are compressing the shaft spring. This will expose a retaining clip that is around the shaft, this clip holds the lock ring and the shaft spring. 17) Using the jewelers screwdrivers, gingerly coax the circular clip that is seated in a groove around the diameter of the steering shaft, out of the groove and upward toward the lock ring compressor. 18) The lock ring and the clip will come free and be careful not to lose the clip, or the spring located behind the lock ring 19) now you can see the turn signal switch (usually a white molded plastic ). remove the following screws, and retain which screw came from which hole: a) the retainer clip for the turn signal handle b) 3 screws holding the turn signal switch in place 20) slide the turn signal switch straight up the shaft and let it hang out of the steering column. You may need to use the jewlers screwdrivers to aid the removal once the screws are removed 21) looking at the area near the ignition tumbler you will see a torx head screw. This holds the ignition key lock in place. Remove the screw and you can remove the ignition tumbler. 22) Replacement is the reverse of the teardown, and the trickiest part is the replacement of the lock ring clip. Use the jewelers screwdrivers to help negotiate it back into its groove
You need to remove the steering wheel, which means you may need a steering wheel/gear puller if the wheel is still pressed on. Behind that is the steering wheel lock system. t…here is a small ring around the base, you need to push the serrated locking plate in (toward engine) to expose the ring. This is a 2 person job. One to push the other to remove the clip/ring. Once all of that is removed you need to remove the turn signal switch, this can be done by removing the screws, you may not need to remove it completely. Just move the switch aside. Now behind all that is a set screw holding in the ignition. Remove that screw and the tumbler and all slide out. Now reinstall everything by working backwards. Replacing the pieces is much easier.
you have to remove the steering wheel and the turn signal. this requires special tools that can be purchased or rented cheaply.
depends on which engine you have
Any decent locksmith can rebuild the lock cylinder it for $25 - $50. DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE DEALERSHIP
It engages and disengages the lock that starts the vehicle. There are 2 parts to the switch. The ignition switch and the lock assembly.
Remove the wiring harness from the 2003 Jeep Liberty pressureswitch. Remove the power steering pressure switch retaining screws.Reverse the process to install the new power st…eering pressureswitch.
Under the housing where the lower radiator hose attaches.
In Jeep Liberty
Inside the fuel tank.
In Starters and Ignition Systems
When you determine that it is defective.
In Jeep Liberty
If it's like the '06 its in either 2H, 4H, N or 4L. Those are the ponsoitis on the shifter (it isn't a throttle) for the transfer case. According to my owners manual the Part …time indicator illuminates when in 4H. The 4LO MODE indicator light illuminates when the transfer case is shifted to 4L. It also cautions not to attempt to make a shift when the front or rear wheels are spinning. The transfer case is not equipped with a synchronizer and therefore the front and rear driveshafts must be equal for the shift to take place . The manual also states under the explanations for 4H 4L that each locks the front and rear drive shafts together so I think that Part Time designator is maybe a bit of a mis-nomer. The Grand Cherokee has a different setup which does, I believe have a part time setup. Maybe they just used the same instrument panel and activated those lights because they were there. From personal experience if you want to shift the transfer case while sitting still make darned sure you have the transmission in Neutral. Try it in Park and (if you pull hard enough) you'll wind up needing a new transfer case shifter as it will break a nylon piece attaching the cable. The cable isn't sold separately and the entire shift unit has to be replaced at around $350. Luckily I did it while it was still under warranty.
In Jeep Liberty
It is on the bottom of the fluid reservoir.