Spark plug wires? Coil pack? Dirty injector? Spark plug wires? Coil pack? Dirty injector? Spark plug wires? Coil pack? Dirty injector?
Probably valve stem seals.
Could be a Throttle Position Sensor.
because it is not warmed up enough to stay running or you have the idle speed down too low and it not running at the right rpm to get the transmission up to speed
The engine has a serious ignition or injection problem needing repair
I unplugged air censor under hood on top right side engine flat black box to see if that was the problem and it was
i hate to tell you this but the stock carbs are just junk. you are better off just to go after market. weber or sidedraft. It will fix all your problems. $300 fix.
check the catalytic converter.Sounds like it is possibly plugged.
Change the fuel filter before you go any further.
have you checked your spark plugs? Orrrr... vacuum leaks, computer connections, wiring, fault codes, CTS-coolant temp. sensor, valve timing, etc. Bring it to a garage.
the lights playing up something with the engine take it to the mechanic
Sounds like mass air sensor is out. is it burnung exsess fuel? if so sensor is bad. Also check knock sensor on side of block. for some reason the threads losen and will back out on it's own. This will cause rough and high idle and bad shift points. Hope this helps.
drain your oil and replace your filter... after that you fill up the oil while constantly cheking the level on the dip stick... once it shows that it is full on the dip stick place the cover back, start car, wait till it idels out... then shut off... after that chek oil level, add if needed, and tahts it buddy!!!! (ima a certified tech)
it could be many things but i know my dads truck was doing this and i adjusted the TV (throttle valve) cable that runs to the tranny and it started to smarten up then i checked the plug wires and such and it was number 1 and 4 wires were in the wrong places after he had the cap rotor plugs wires done at a shop so id recomend checking those things the tv cables are simple to adjust just google it and it should come up with something and check your timing is correct it might be dying because it cant keep up rpms when you drop it into gear
if it idels high most likely it will be your air flow massenser and there not hard to install just when you install this make sure you desconect the battery for 30 min.this will reset your computer leave the battery disconected for about 30 min.this should take care of the problemAnswernot hard to replace if you know how to adjust them i would check the choke before the others
"My" 1995 F-150 Idles. Maybe "your" F150 has a vacuum leak, causing it to idel instead. This condition would cause it to suck for sure. Try looking for a hose off someplace, and maybe a cracked or otherwise broken fitting. If you can get someone else to help, try locating the leak by sound while the other person operates the throttle.
Might have something to do with the timeing. I have a 1991 ranger that would drop down to 500 RMP from 1.5K when idleing before i lost my timeing.Answerreplace tps ford had a tsb about this sorry to complicate things, i have had my ranger for 4 years 3/12 of which have been speant trying to figure out something similar, it only happens in warm weather, usually at high altitudes it does not do it, it only gets worse. i have run into only a couple people on-line to have the same problem. i have change tps iac and just replaced mass air flow sensor, only have 20 miles with it on but hopefully that was the ticket.it could be the air flow silinoid remove the silinoid and clog the hole with your finger and see if it idels down . its located by the tpsI had the same problem with my 2000 Ford Ranger revving to about 3000 rpm for no reason and then dropping back down to normal. The problem was the idle air control valve was bad. You can get a new one at any autoparts store for about $50 and that completely fixed the problem. In fact it actually runs better now and idles at a lower rpm.
You really need to find out what the trouble code is that is stored for the check engine light to give you are starting point. Until you do that, you are going to be guessing at your problem. The only thing that you may be able to look for without scanning the system, that I can think of, is a vacuum leak. Look around the top part of the engine for a vacuum hose that may swollen and fallen off, or may be split or broken. That commonly happens with W/stars. Another thing that commonly happens is idle air control valves stick, but I wouldn't replace it without having proper diagnostics run. Be sure to read through the "Related Questions" below.
Woodrow Wilson was a Democrat, and based much of his ideology on liberal theory, as he was a Ph.D in Political Science. He was progressive in nature, and tried to use the Presidency much in the same way Teddy Roosevelt did. Therefore Wilson tried to act as a steward to the people, but failed to achieve the same success as TR. To sum up the answer... we, in the field, wold categorize Wilson a partisan leaner, favoring the left, or a moderate Democrat. Wilson formed idels based on liberalist theories and ideologies such as the league of nations and new world order he was as such and has been branded ''the dove of politics''. His theories revolving liberalism are still used in todays modern society and so the state of the American economy and isuess about government has pushed president Obama to reverse current governing systems and go back to the start thus Woodrow Wilsons ideas as stated in Obamas speech hense we must go back to our former theories. And also democrat and republican parties Liberalism is an ideology that falls under those parties as such views or beliefs of those certain idoelogies.
That little unit above the carb that the throttle cable goes thru is in place as a kill switch if the carb gets stuck wide open. By bypassing that unit (I believe is is called T.O.R.S. unit) your motor wont shut off, but you are also stuck wide open. Either the needle in your carborator could be bent, or most likely it has something to do with your Throttle cable. The cable and rust on the inside over time and can cause the cable to get stuck or the cable may be frayed. (As mine was) With the bike off, Take the air filter hose off of the carborator, but leave the carb attached to the motor. Hit the throttle a couple times and see if the needle inside the carb gets stuck up. If it does it is probably your cable, if you can't find any fraying, you may be able to get some WD40 or some other lubricant to soak down inside the cable housing to free up the cable. I just got a new throttle and the kit bypassed the TORS unit on my bike, and now I am hving problems with an exptremely touchy trottle, so if you end up getting new cables, make sure they work with the TORS unit, hoped this helped. And good riding!
I would start by checking for a cracked or worn distributor cap. Check the spark plug wires and the plugs themselves. What it sounds like right off the bat is that it's missing which leads me to believe it's a spark related issue. I would generally start by doing a visual inspection of the distributor system, pull the cap, look for obvious cracks or wear on the contact point for the Rotor. I would then check all the spark plugs for oil or water on them. Generally though if it's the spark plugs themselves the issue would clear up after driving a few miles unless the build up on the plug was excessive. If all that checks out then I would check to ensure spark is getting from the distributor to the ends of the plug wires. You can do this by pulling the wire off of the spark plug and holding it close to a grounded bolt on the vehicle. Be careful though if it arcs it will sting. The other thing it could be is that your timing is off. Now generally the timing is computer controlled unless you have recently replaced or adjusted the timing. The timing is adjusted by loosing the two nuts on the distributor and rotating it. But I would not do that unless you have a Timing Light and know what you're doing. Timing can be difficult to set. All the pertinent information should be on a sticker under the hood of the car. It should say what the spark plug gap and timing should be set at. Michael
Hi there, Your problem is most likely your IAC, (Idle Air Control.) It's mounted directly to the throttle body with a wire conector plugged into it, and attaches with two fasteners. I have a 1993 3.8 T-bird LX, they both use the same part for idle control. When mine went bad, the car would start fine and immedatley go up to 2000 RPM and hold there, and then the noise started, very disturbing. Your description of a jet eninge is pretty close, and it will make that sound as the engine turns off. The IAC has a bellows in it that pulls or pushes the valve onto or off of the valve seat to control the flow of by pass air at idle. This is how your cars computer maintains your idle. When the throttle blade is closed at idle, this valve can pull in some air to raise it, or restrict air to lower the idle. What has happend is the bellows has worn out and has a hole it, so the air rushes in and cannot be controlled to maintain the correct idle. The sound is the air cavitating the bellows, and is then amplified by the air intake tube that connects from the air box to the throttle body. Just replace the IAC, and everything will return to normal. Look on the net for Ford replacement parts and shop the price around until you find what you want. Hope you have success in fixing this one yourself and saving on the cost of having it installed at a dealer, ouch. NOTE: To remove, Unplug the wire connector,loosen the two fasteners atop the IAC, should be 8mm or 10mm, I'm going off memory here. Pull the IAC off the throttle body by lifting up. Clean the gasket surface if the old gasket sticks on there. Put new gasket, (included with part purchase), under the new IAC. Re-install the two fasteners and hand tighten. Plug in the wire connector, and your done. Now start your car and listen to the sweet sound of a super coupe at the correct idle. Good job, you saved yourself a bundle on that repair, and your car is fixed.