If it goes to the floor with no pressure, chances are the Slave Cylinder is gone, or you are out of fluid and have a leak somewheres. But chances are if you're losing fluid, it is your slave cylinder leaking.
rapid release of the cluth pedal. When stationary can cause a car to stall. When on the move can restart an engine, as in bump starting.
You need to lift your left foot off of the clutch pedal.
Assuming the vehicle doesn't move when you put it in gear, it sounds like the clutch is blown.
hydraulics work because fluids are considered a non-compressible material. therefore when you put your foot down on the clutch pedal it pushes the hydraulic fluid pressure through the line to disengage the clutch. if there is air in the line the air bubble will compress (gases ARE compressible) and you will feel a "spongy pedal" and you will have to "pump" the clutch pedal to move that air bubble down the hydraulic line before you get a "good" clutch
Put your foot on the clutch, move the gear stick to neutral and then put your foot on the brake pedal
Simply put. when you depress the clutch pedal, it separates the clutch disc from the flywheel, when you let go of your clutch pedal it drops the clutch disc back onto the flywheel. Flywheel- spins at the speed of your engine (RPM) revs per minute depressed clutch-is seperated from flywheel allows you to shift into higher or lower gear released clutch- is engaged onto flywheel the two connect.. engaged clutch means your gonna move! disengaged clutch means you aint moving forward, your literally in neutral.
no fluid, it has a mechanical clutch cable. just like a bicycle brake cable. just bigger and beefier. there can be many causes: cable bad. pedal end feel off. bell houusing end fell off or the nut on end fell off. the throw out bearing , melted to nothing left. the clutch fingers have melted and bent due to above. the clutch plate cracked and broke up to chunks. seem them all but , bad cable. easy to test, 1 person push pedal , other look at clutch rod. if it dont move 3 inches , then cable is bad. if it does move then clutch is bad. 3 pieces, PedAL, CABLE, CLUTCH.
Any clutch that starts to move the vehicle at or near the top of the pedal movement (farthest away from the floor) needs to be adjusted.
The Throwout Bering or the slave cylinder is bad, they are located in the transmission. Pull the tranny and replace the clutch assembly's cost is 300 bucks for DYI or around 6 to 7 bills for a shop. I know this because I just did it on my 94 ranger.
The clutch pedal is spring retrun and I assume that when you changed the clutch you had removed the adjustign screw and pivot from the cable. Ensure that the clutch pedal is in the raised position and that the clutch thow-out arm moves freely. If the arm does not move freely then the poblem is internal and you'll have to pull the transaxle again (hopefully not!) Feed the threaded end of the clutch cable through the throw-out arm, reattach the pivot and adjusting screw. until the pivot contacts the arm. Push the throw-out arm towards the front of the car adn adjust the knurled nut until there is a 3 mm gap between the pivot and the arm. Test the clutch by depressing the pedal and check that the cable is pull;ing the throw-out arm. Next start the car, select first gear and slowly release the clutch pedal until you feel the clutch enage, it should be about 2/3's the pedal travel off the floor before engagement. Good luckmalcolm
Open bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder and bleed the system. Follow the line from the clutch master cylinder reservoir to the slave cylinder. There you will find the bleeder valve on the slav cylinder. Follow this procedure to properly bleed the hydraulic clutch which is similar to bleeding brakes. 1) Top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir. 2) Put a clear plastic tube on the bleeder nipple and submerge the end of the tube in a jar with some clutch hydraulic fluid. 3) Slowly depress the clutch pedal. 4) SLIGHTLY loosen the bleeder nipple. 5) While fluid is traveling through the tube, tighten the bleeder BEFORE the pedal is fully depressed. 6) Release pedal. Repeat procedure until you are certain: A) No bubbles appear in the fluid stream. B) The bleeder was opened after the clutch pedal started depressing and was closed before the pedal reached the bottom. C) The master cylinder reservoir never uncovered the ports in the bottom. Make sure the slave cylinder is tightly fastened to the transmission case and does not move when the clutch pedal is depressed. Look for threaded adjustment rods in the slave cylinder and clutch pedal linkages that can be used to insure the clutch is fully released BEFORE the clutch pedal is fully depressed.
is this moving when mobile , over bumps? check engine mounts, gear box mounts and also check that clutch slave cylander is secure and not loose