Typically, that problem would only be caused by a faulty horn relay or a damaged horn contact switch inside the steering column. A frayed wire that rubs on a metal part of the vehicle.
Since the relay is the easiest part to test, remove the relay and replace it with a similar relay FOR TEST PURPOSES ONLY. If the horn works properly with a replacement relay, put the relay you used for testing back and purchase a new horn relay.
If the test relay left the horn ON, you probably have a damaged horn contact switch, in which you will need to replace the faulty component.
As far as I know, the horn is behind the driver's side headlight.
The fuse panel with the horn fuse and relay should be adjacent to the battery.
Palindrome for blowing horn: 'toot'.
The wire to the relay grounded somewhere. Take it to a garage to get it checked out.
A synonym for blowing horn is "trumpeting."
repair horn
A palindrome for blowing a horn could be: 'toot'.
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Faulty horn switch, faulty horn relay, or a short to power somewhere in the wiring. Power should be constant at the 30 pole of the relay, and should only be present at the 86 pole when the horn switch is depressed.
hi your horn is defective ! there could be a short but it is widely known that a horn could still honk before blowing fuse,
There is one common reason that your hazards would be blinking along with the horn blowing on your car. This common reason is a security system.
Most likely a short between the horn relay and the horn switch in the steering wheel.