Most likely the ignition module.
If you can start the engine when cold, but it sputters and stalls when it's warm, then you most likely have a bad ICM. When you crank the engine, if you have tachometer movement, then the module is good, if there's no tach movement while cranking then the module is bad. The tachometer gets the signal from the module, so if the tach works, then the module is good.
From the driver's side fender, look at the carburetor. Near the bottom and towards the back, you will see two small Phillips-head screws. The upper (SAS1) and lower (SAS2) both control idle speed. LEAVE THE LOWER ONE ALONE!!! Start the truck and let it warm up to operating temperature. You'll need a tach that is visible from the engine compartment--I got mine at Sears for like $30. Anyway, the factory spec for warm idle is 700 +/- 50 RPM. Use the screwdriver to turn SAS1 (the upper of the two idle screws) until your tach shows revs in that range. That's it, you're done.
Vapor Lock
add coolant.
you have a sensor problem.
I just had the exact problem you described. I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. This solved the problem. (The cam shaft sensor was probably the culprit but I changed both anyway.)
It stalls even when warm
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Minimum of 10 psi at idle when the engine is warm.Minimum of 10 psi at idle when the engine is warm.
Hi, more information would be helpful! my 1989 929 has idle problems, it runs real bad if you dont let it warm up long enough but once warmed up has problem idleing, makes the car shake alot as if its about to stall, and then when stopped sometimes actually stalls. Is your car doing the same?
Front Brakes sqwell and truck goes dead and will crank right back up does anybody know why?
heater on at idle and will not blow warm air. when moving it blows the warm air from the vents. what will cause this