It kind of depends on which switch you are talking about. Most newer cars have two. One to send info to the computer and one to send to the gauge or light on the dash. No problem if the one in the dash is bad....other than you won't know if your car starts to overheat. The one for the computer is a little different. Yes....you can still drive it. However, it's not the best thing for the car. The computer adjusts just about everything on that car according to the coolant temp. If it's not getting that signal it goes to a "limp home" mode. Mileage, emissions and perhaps even shift points will be poor. It's best to get it fixed as soon as you can.
There are two motors which drive two separate fans on the CR-V radiator. One is the regular cooling system fan and it is operated by a temperature sensing switch in the coolant system that monitors the coolant temperature. When the coolant reeaches a certain temperature the temperature sensing switch turns on the current to the cooling fan. When the coolant temoperature falls below a certain temperature the switch shuts the fan off. The other fan is the fan that is controlled by the vehicle cabin air conditioner. When the A/C is turned on the fan comes on automatically with the a/c.
my relay switch is broken and has gotten my transmission in over drive-did you find the switch?
Thermostat is located on side of cylinder block, behind coolant inlet housing for lower radiator hose and the generator. drain cooling system. rotate accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise to release tension from accessory drive belt. remove accessory drive belt. remove mounting bolts and generator. disconnect electrical connector from engine coolant temperature switch for removal of coolant inlet housing. remove nuts, coolant inlet housing, thermostat and gasket.
because the brake switch is probably broken
Yes, but you will have to join together the 2 coolant pipes that go through the bulkhead to the matrix, so you don't loose your engine coolant.
Locate and remove old coolant temperature sensor (disconnect electric connector and you should be able to loosen sensor with an open end wrench; if it's too tight, use a flared end wrench to break it loose). Catch coolant that spills out after sensor is removed, properly dispose of old coolant. Install new sensor in reverse order. Top off coolant. Clear trouble code & test drive vehicle to ensure vehicle performs to spec.
There are innumerable points for the leak, cost for repair will depend on where it is. You can drive the car only if the leak is minor and the temperature gauge shows normal temperature.
Its probably your water pump, which pumps coolant through the engine block to cool it down.
If an idler pulley is broken, I would advise not to drive it anywhere. It would effect the power steering, water pump, alternator and coolant fan causing you to get stuck on the road and possibly cost many more $$ in damage.
an incomplete list: broken drive belt/chain; dead battery; broken starter; lack of fuel; lack of ignition (bad coil or disconnected wiring); broken fuel pump; broken oil pump; bad ignition switch/ignition switch failure to read key
Do you mean the switch that automatically kicks down the idle when the engine reaches proper temperature to drive and indicates with the red light going out on the dashboard? It is in the thermostat housing I believe.
check for broken wires in the door and check for pawer across the switch drive safe