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There are two sets of terminals on a GFCI. They are labeled LINE and LOAD. Each set has a hot and a neutral. To wire a GFCI to an older two wire system without a grounding conductor, you terminate the hot wire coming from the panel to the line terminal(usually the brass colored one) and the neutral wire to the other one(usually the silver colored one). If there is another set, or sets(black and white) in the outlet box, they terminate on the load terminals respectively. Code requires any GFCI that has no grounding conductor(the bare one in modern wiring), to have the sticker which states no grounding conductor. This sticker comes with a new GFCI. The GFCI will still operate when there is a ground present. Basically, a GFCI monitors the current between the hot and neutral, if there is any imbalance, which would happen if some of the current was going through another grounded means, it will trip, thereby protecting you .
You could, but if you're going to do that then why not ground the entire service entrance panel? ...and you need to drive (if I remember correctly)...about 7 feet into the ground to be effective.
Yes, you can still have an electrical fault current on an appliance or the wiring which needs to have a ground return path for personal and equipment safety.
4 wire household wiring is black, red, (hot wires) white (neutral) and bare or green (ground wire). You say 3 wires. Is it 120v or 240v. If its 240v which is more common just use the two hots and the ground and cap off the neutral wire.
Yes, unless you are in a mobile home, in which case you must maintain separation of ground and neutral all the way back to the service entrance.
No. Hook up the power wire first, then the ground wire. The ground wire is what acutually draws the power to the unit. As you will notice the power wont turn on if just the power wire is plugged in..
to hook up the tach use the hot lead on the disributor and to any good ground wire and if there is a light hook it to the wire on you light switch
A GFCI receptacle can extend its protection to regular receptacles connected to the output side of the GFCI. Each actual GFCI receptacle should be directly connected to a breaker in electric panel.
There are two sets of terminals on a GFCI. They are labeled LINE and LOAD. Each set has a hot and a neutral. To wire a GFCI to an older two wire system without a grounding conductor, you terminate the hot wire coming from the panel to the line terminal(usually the brass colored one) and the neutral wire to the other one(usually the silver colored one). If there is another set, or sets(black and white) in the outlet box, they terminate on the load terminals respectively. Code requires any GFCI that has no grounding conductor(the bare one in modern wiring), to have the sticker which states no grounding conductor. This sticker comes with a new GFCI. The GFCI will still operate when there is a ground present. Basically, a GFCI monitors the current between the hot and neutral, if there is any imbalance, which would happen if some of the current was going through another grounded means, it will trip, thereby protecting you .
hook the ground wire to a good ground and pierce the wire you want to check with the tester, if it lights up, it has power, if not it doesnt.
Hook up the red wire to the fuse box or another wire that gives power when the key is on. Hook up the white wire to a wire coming out of the headlight switch. This will make is so that when you turn your headlights on, the light will come on on the tach. If you don't mind the light on the tach being on all the time then just hook it to another power wire. Hook the black wire to a ground like a screw or a bolt. The green wire is the signal wire. Run it through your fire wall. Hook it up to the negative side of the coil. There will be a negative sign on the coil denoting the correct side.
you could have a bad ground wire that was my problem
Yes, but it will not pass a code inspection and is unsafe.
Hook a switch up to the remote turn on and ground. Before the wiring for the amp.
RED wire goes on +, and the black wire gets wired to the body of the car. Which is ground -
black and red wires are hot,blk wire to wire junction and brn t/lamp wire cut in,red to batt pwr,blk/w wire to ign turn on and ground to ground..
on my older jvc its no problem at all just ground the wire that your radio says to hook up to the ebrake. newer ones and like my pioneer need to have the radio turned on first then ground that wire. trick is --- get a standard universal relay--- like from autozone for your aftermarket driving/fog lights. take the 85 terminal of your relay and hook it to your radios power amplifier wire(usually blue with white stripe), take the 86 terminal and hook it to ground. take the 87 terminal and hook to the same ground, and finally take the 30 terminal and hook it to you radios ebrake wire. simple :-)