That could work, because there does no 4 ohm amplifier exist. The amplifier will have an output impedance of around 0.04 ohms. In hi-fi we have always impedance bridging. Zout << Zin. The damping factor Df = Zin / Zout tells you what Zout is. Zout = Zin/Df. If the damping factor Df = 200 and the loudspeaker impedance is Zin = 4 ohms, the output impedance of the amplifier is Zout = 4 / 200 = 0.02 ohms. You see, there is no "4 ohm amplifier" with a 4 ohm output. Scroll down to related links and look at "Voltage Bridging - Zout < Zin".
Depends if it is dual 4Ohm or dual 2Ohm and what Impedance your Amp supports. *If you amp can handle 1Ohm Load and you have a dual 2Ohm sub you can run the sub in parallel to get a 1Ohm load (parallel meaning both + are connected with each and same with both -) *If your amp can handle 2Ohm load and you have a dual 4Ohm sub you can run the sub in parallel to get a 2Ohm load. *If your amp supports a 4Ohm load and you have a dual 2Ohm sub you can run the sub in series to get a 4Ohm load. (series meaning the - from one coil is to be connected with the + on the other coil) Do not mix up Impedance's make sure you find out what your Subs Impedance is and what you Amps Impedance is
It depends on the amplifier. If you absolutely want to leave the current subwoofer configuration as 2ohm and 4ohm, the resultant impedance seen by the amplifier is as follows: Both wired In-Series: 2ohm + 4ohm = 6 ohms Both wired In-Parallel: 1 / ( (1/2) + (1/4) ) = 1.3 ohms The Parallel configuration can probably be only run by a 1ohm-stable amplifier whereas the 6ohm Series configuration can be run by any amplifier that is able to drive anything under 6 ohms. Also if ran in the Parallel configuration, this mismatch in driver impedance may also cause the 2ohm subwoofer to receive more power, resulting in a different sound characteristics than the 4ohm subwoofer. Usually with DVC subwoofers you want to match the impedance between drivers. If possible, configure each subwoofer to 4ohms and connect them in Parallel. This will produce a total impedance of 2 ohms (you need a 2ohm-stable amplifier). If your DVC subwoofers only support 2ohms and 8ohms do either: Both wired In-Series - configure subwoofers to 2ohms: 2ohms + 2ohms = 4ohms Both wired In-Parallel - configure subwoofers to 8ohms: 1 / ( (1/8) + (1+8) ) = 4ohms.
Try the related link:
You can, but the Sub will not put out its full sound power.
yes
its a 6ohm sub in the stock location. if you are going to replace it you will need to purchase a good amp. the stock amp does not have adequate power to power any other sub. 10" Kicker comp subs make a great replacement, and get an amp that is half the RMS power input of the sub. make shure that you are reading the AMPs RMS power output.
Normally 1 or 2.
Hook all the negatives together, and hook all the positives together. you would have 2 wires for each. one from the amp to the first sub, and another going from the first sub to the second.
ONLY if your amp can pull a 2 ohm load! Which is vary few but your more expensive amp can pull 1/2 ohm load
you could possibly kill your amp. because the subs are asking for a certain amount of power and your amp cant give the power. but typically the amp will push all its power avalible to the sub and you should be fine. but for the optimum sound system the amp rms should be the same or close to the sub rms.
The sound quality won't be very good
i. HIGHLY. recommend. an. amp. But it is possible if you would buy a converter for your CD player or just connect the sub wire from your sub and connect it into your rear speakers on your trunk. But this would send treble through them which sounds like crap and isn't exactly the best on the subs. I would get an amp