struts are a wear and tear item - you can replace one at a time if you mostly drive on the freeway or non performance oriented - if you take your car to the track or drive aggressively around turns then you would like to replace both
Basically a strut is a combination shock absorber and spring. There are used mostly on unibody cars to support the weight of the cars (spring) and dampen road shock (absorber). If the back strut is bad, then the gas inside has started to get past the rubber seal of the strut. Less gas means less compression, less compression means less dampening. This will lead to more wear on just about every other part of the car. Sometimes struts break, or the mount can go bad. It is a good idea to replace the mount at the same time as the strut.
First you must remove the rear seat to gain access to the top strut mounts. The bottom of the rear seat comes out first. On the 96 model there are two tabs at the base of the seat bottm that you pull forward to release the seat bottom. I'm not sure if the 93 is the same. After removal of the rear seat bottom, you will see a bolt at the bottom of each side of the rear seat back that need to be removed. Fold down the arm rest and disconnect the vinyl cover at the base of the armrest to expose and remove two screws. Push up on the rear seat back to unhook three plastic hooks (center and one at each end) at the top of the rear seat back. Remove the seat back. Remove the large metal support panel that is behind the seat back. Safely jack up the rear of the car and support on jack stands so the rear wheels hang free. Doing one strut at a time, remove the two top strut mount bolts leaving the center strut stud nut in place. The strut and mount will lower out of the unibody. Disconnect the bottom strut mount. Remove the strut/coil spring assembly. Using a strut/spring compressor (some auto parts stores rent these) compress the spring. Carefully remove the top strut stud retaining nut, top strut mount, bumpers and strut boot. Carefully install compressed spring, strut boot, bumpers and top strut mount on new strut and install washer and retaining nut. Reinstall strut and etc. in reverse order.
a test to tesy ur strut assembly is to rock the car on the front and see if it returns in one rebound if not it is time to go and get some new springs
replace one side at a time, take the bolt out that goes through the mount and jack motor up on that side and replace the mount.
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Most likely it is the suspension sysytem on the rear of your vehicle, however it could be a multitude of things, from bad bearings to a loose exhaust mount to bad bushings in some of the hardware. To determine its exact location, block the wheels so the vehicle cant move and cawil underneath the rear and have someone apply weight to the back of the vehicle. Locate the squeak and diagnose. In my experience it is the strut assembly on either side or both, to rectify this you must replace the strut(it is recommended to replace both at the same time for balancing issues.
Jack up car and support with jack stands. Remove rear wheels. Go inside rear door of car and tilt upper rear seat backs down. Remove philips head screws from black trim that holds rear window package tray ( or carpet trim) in place. Push package tray up out of way. You may have to push hard because it is also held by plastic push pins. Remove rubber insulating blocks in each rear corner. Now you will have access to upper strut mount. Put jack under the axil your working on to support it. Go back in the car and disconnect the three 13 mm nuts from the upper mount. Go back under the car and disconnect the one 3/4 inch bolt that holds the bottom of the strut. Once disconnected you may have to use a hammer to tap the bottom of the strut off the pin. ( they get stuck on some times). Now lower your support jack and remove the strut assembly. You will need a spring compressor to to take the tension off the spring so you can remove the nut that holds the strut mount and transfer the spring and mount to the new strut.then just reverse the procedure to install.( same procedure for both sides) do one at a time. ( don,t try to remove nut from top of strut assembly without compressor in place you can get hurt bad!
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It doesn't matter to the strut where the spring pressure is and for how long.
There are at least two reasons. First one is malfunctioning strut itself (leakage). Second one is holders which attache struts to the car body have some rubber parts inside. As time goes the rubber parts wear off and fail. In the first case you have to replace the fail strut(s). For the second one you have replace the holders. Sometimes it happens you that you have to replace struts as well as holders.
Using a jack, keep the engine supported. One at a time, unbolt a motor mount, the engine may have to be raised slightly to remove the mount. Fit the new mount back into the hole and bolt in place.
Begin by compressing the strut spring with a spring compressor. Be very careful as the strut spring will be under hundreds of pounds of pressure. Remove the strut retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new struts.