no as it will burn out the element
The anti-pumping relay is a device in circuit-breaker whose function is to prevent multiple breaker closures. For instance, if the operator gives the closing command to the breaker by pressing the close button and the breaker closes. However, a fault in the system causes the breaker to trip. Since the close command is still in the pressed condition, there is a chance of the breaker closing again and being tripped by the relay multiple times. This can damage the closing mechanism of the breaker. The anti-pumping relay prevents this by ensuring that the breaker closes only once for one close command from the control panel.
The water heater is most likely popping because of lime or seditment buildup in the tank. Depending on the age of the water heater, it may still have some service life yet, but flushing of the water heater may be required. I'm currently going through this myself and a quick internet search of "water heater flush" gave a lot of insight. Hope this helps.
No.
If you mean drip leg, yes you can. Some local codes still want a drip leg installed.
it will heat as long as the gas is on and your pilot is still lit, you would have to call your gas company to turn it off.
Your gas heater doesn't come on? Why's that? What kind of heater is it? Have you gone to the manufacturer's website, looked up the owner's manual and read he "troubleshooting" section? If you've done that and you still don't have heat, you should check the breaker, check the fuse mounted next to the heater, and then call a reputable HVAC contractor.
The basic assumption I am making is that your oven is on its own breaker with nothing else on the circuit. If oven is sharing circuit, unplug other devices. The problem is either with your breaker, the oven itself or the wire. If you have a good clamp-on ampmeter and know how to use it you can measure the current and see how it compares to the breaker rating. Provided the breaker doesn't trip instantaneously. To isolate the problem to the oven, make sure all stove top elements are off. Start with oven temp on lowest setting. If this trips breaker immediately there is a problem with your oven heating element or elements. There may be more than one. Somehow the resistance in the element has decreased or shorted and too much current is flowing. If the breaker doesn't blow immediately, there may still be a problem with element, but as you turn up the heat more voltage is applied to the element causing more current to flow. This would rule out a dead short, but not a bad element. If a new element doesn't fix the problem it may be a faulty breaker. You could test this by swapping the breaker with a know working breaker of the same ratings from your electric panel. You should only do this if you know what you are doing, because electrocution is possible.
A breaker that still shows full voltage after it has tripped is definitely bad.
A circuit breaker will trip if it is faulty or if the connected circuit has a short circuit or a connected device is trying to draw more current than the breaker rating. If you disconnect the output wire from the breaker and it still trips, it is a faulty breaker. If the breaker is tripping immediately when it is turned on then start disconnecting elements of the circuit to see what might be causing the problem. If everything was working and now isn't, it is likely that the wire from the breaker is nicked where it exits the box and is shorting to the feedthru connector.
You need to remove everything connected to the breaker and see if it still trips. If it does it is in the wiring or possibly a bad breaker. Disconnect load from breaker and see if it still trips. If so replace the breaker. If it still trips and is not the breaker then you will have to start pulling each outlet from wall and checking after disconnecting each outlet.
Make sure your heater is still lit if gas, or hasn't popped the breaker if electric. Once you are certain it has power or gas and still no hot water, it's time to call the plumber.
You could check the hoses connected to the heater are still in good shape. You can also check the fuses associated with the heater (ie: blower motor) to make sure thay aren't blown. There's the possiblity that the heater element may have broken down, which can happen given the age of the car.
Turning the breaker on allows the power to flow through to the outlets, lights, and appliances on that circuit, so yes power goes to and through a turned on breaker. If the breaker is off, but the main power is on, power still get to the breaker, usually from the bus bar that runs down the middle of the back of the breaker box.
Could be anything at fault. Unplug the compressor and try using your washer. If it works, then you have a fault with your compressor. If it still doesn't work, do what should have been done in the first place: call an electrician.
The electrical unit on the water heater may be shorting or you may need to install a filter before the water heater as particles may be breaking the element inside.
It sounds like the breaker is unserviceable. Seeing as it supplies 240 volt outlet it must be a two pole breaker. If it is a single handle two pole breaker then one pole set inside the breaker is not disconnecting one of the lines. If it is supplied from two single pole breakers that has a common tie, the common tie might be loose and does not shut off both poles when thrown to the off position. If there is no common tie then both breakers must be turned off to interrupt the 240 volt supply.
An atom is the smallest particle of an element that still has the chemical characteristics of that element