yes
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No, the ground wire is never to be used as a neutral. In this case if you need a 120 volt circuit from the 220 volt circuit a three wire cable (3C #14) must be installed.
Yes, 1 conductor is live, the other neutral (just like a normal plug)
No it is not
A 220V 30A circuit typically requires three conductors: two hot wires and one ground wire. An additional neutral wire may be needed depending on the specific electrical configuration or equipment being used.
No. The black is 220, the red is 220, and the ground serves as the neutral. the last answer "no" is correct but the reason is not. the ground is still a ground. the red is 110v and the black is 110v. together they are 220v. the neutral or (common) is for a 110v return. for example a stove or a dryer will have 2 hots a common and a ground because they use 220v and 110v. 220v to power the heating elements and 110 for the controls, light bulbs or the outlet on a stove. A construction heater only uses 220v and only requires the two hots and the ground for safety.
Both screws are brass because in the US you need two hots to get 220V. In a 220V only circuit you do not connect the neutral, only two hots and a ground. This is why 220V breakers are twice as wide as 110V and have two terminals instead of one.
Voltage is not an absolute figure. Voltage Difference is the exact term. So, the voltage difference between the two wires in the 220 V circuit will be 220V.
A straight 220V circuit typically has 2 wires - one hot wire (typically black or red) and one neutral wire (typically white). These wires are used to carry the electrical current to and from the device being powered.
To convert a 4-wire 220V connection to a 3-wire 220V connection, you will need to remove the neutral wire and connect the ground wire to the neutral terminal. This diagram shows the proper wiring configuration for this conversion.
Neutral will be closest to protective earth ground. In the US, neutral is white. we can check using tester ,when tester is connected to phase only lamp of the tester glows and when it is connected to the nuetral the lamp does not glow. another method is, connect the voltmeter to any one of the terminal and ground if the voltmeter shows 110v 0r 220v then it is phase and the other is nuetral.
In the United States, household electrical wiring typically uses one black and one red conductor to distinguish the ungrounded or hot conductors. This serves no purpose other than to be able to identify one wire from the other at each end. In any singe phase system, such as a home, on a 220v circuit, it matters not what position each conductor is terminated. On branch circuits, black is generally used on all 110v circuits, and a combination of black and red are used on all 220v circuits. White is used to identify the grounded or neutral conductor. And the green or bare conductor is used for the equipment grounding conductor, commonly called "the ground."
Quick answer is that 220v does not use or need a neutral. The original concept of the neutral (going back to Edison and DC power) was cutting the power in half (not really accurate but one way to look at it). Think about two 110v batteries in series the neutral would come off the connection between the two batteries. so current flow would go from +110 to -110 (first battery) to +110 to -110 (second battery) resulting in 220 output. The connection between the batteries (the neutral) is +110 / -110 resulting in 0. If you want a 110 current instead of using the full flow you could instead use only 'one side' and the neutral and get the 110. When we made the move from DC to AC the basics of this format was kept. So for 110v you need hot and neutral (and a ground) for 220v you need two hots (no neutral) and a ground.HUGE CATCH - WARNING - WARNING!!!Just because you think your equipment is 220v doesn't mean everything it does it does requires 220v for example: some equipment uses 220v for the motor and 110v for the rest of its electrical needs (Dryers are a typical example). In the old days, the dryer would use the two hots (and ground for safety) for 220v and then use one hot and ground (no 'safety' ground) for 110v. However, people often got shocked because this unsafe method would often cause the entire metal chassis to take on a charge. So todays dryers (and any other machine that has both 220v and 110v components) have and are required to have 2 hots ground and neutral. However, the documentation isn't always specific about the '110v need' and a lot of 220v only equipment will still have 4 wire connections even though the neutral is not needed.If you are sure your equipment never utilizes 110v - then you don't need a neutral (a single motor, no thrills (control panel, laser guides, etc), 220v table saw would be fine with out a neutral (one with the thrills may be fine also - depends on the power requirement of the 'thrills'). I don't know about your generator is depends if it is strictly 220v.
You'll need to contact an electrician who will pull a new wire for you. If you only have 2 wires on the 240 line, you don't have a neutral or a ground; both of which are essential for a modern electric range.