To convert a 4-wire 220V connection to a 3-wire 220V connection, you will need to remove the neutral wire and connect the ground wire to the neutral terminal. This diagram shows the proper wiring configuration for this conversion.
The net measured power would appear to be negative, or reversed.
This seems like a question from an electrical course, and is probably best answered by referring to your course materials. It's your test question, not ours, and there won't always be someone else to ask for the answer. Earn your diploma.
A L14-20P is a 3 pole 4wire 125/250 volt grounding plug. The four wire (white, red, black and green) cable connection will be, white wire to the W terminal, red to the X terminal, black to the Y terminal and green to the G terminal. The X and Y terminals wires (red and black) can be interchanged so that there is no cross over of the conductors as they protrude from the cable jacket.
the delta has a higher voltage to ground on the B phase and is identified by the orange color for identification means so its easier to smoke equipment if not careful.hardly see delta connections anymore so old school and outdated. it just makes economic sense to use a star connection.On the above answer there should be no voltage to ground on a delta connection. All three phase coils are connected in series with each other and at no point in the delta are they grounded. Most of the commercial and industrial motor connections are connected delta. In installations where the motor inrush is above utility company specifications the Star- Delta connection is used. This limits the inrush current in the star configuration and then after a time delay connects the motor in a delta configuration. With delta systems the use of grounding lights are mandatory. These are used to detect if a phase grounds out. One phase and the motor can still be in operation, two grounds represent a short circuit and the system will trip.CommentThe second answer is not altogether correct... In the USA and Canada, it is common practise for one phase of the delta-connected secondary windings of a three-phase transformer bank, to have an earthed (grounded) centre tap. With each phase providing 240 V; the centre-tapped phase then provides a combination of 240 V line-to-line together with two 120-V line-to-neutral (earth) voltages which is the standard supply method for residences in North America. The point of common connection between the two remaining phases is termed the 'high leg' of that particular transformer connection, having a potential of 208 V with respect to earth (although this is not used). To summarise, this method provides a 240-V three-phase supply, combined with a single-phase 240/120-V supply, which is useful for small businesses (e.g. garages) which might need to operate three-phase motors.However, the second answer is perfectly true for the UK (and, possibly, elsewhere in Europe) where residences are supplied with just one voltage (230 V) -unlike North America- and delta-connected supplies are relatively unusual.
NO, the 480 Volts Y -- is 4 wire system, with three wires which are hot legs @ 480 volts between each three hot legs. A mid tap is a neutral leg (ground) the white wire. Which gives 277 volts between it and any of the three hot legs. so a 4wire 480 volt Y system. Gives 480 /277 volts.
The question is not clear. If the dryer heats with electricy, the circuit should be a 4wire circuit two wires are ungrounded probably red and black, one grounded wire white (neutral) one grounding wire (green or bare). Red and black go the the side terminals, White usually goes on the top terminal, and green is on the bottom. Normally a # 10 wire is used with a 30 amp 2 pole breaker. If you don't know what you are doing, call a quilified electrician or inspector. Electricity is dangerous.
you need the following wire should be 14-3 wire and two three way switches 14 -3 wire has 4wire in the bundle 1white 1black 1 copper and 1 of a different color this wire runs from switch to fixture to switch from power source tie copper wires together from source ( this is a ground )tie to fixture ground tie black wire together from source this should be the hot leg tie white wire together from source ( this is a Neutral) fourth wire runs from switch to switch wire nut together at fixture follow switch instructions all else fails call electrician
you need the following wire should be 14-3 wire and two three way switches 14 -3 wire has 4wire in the bundle 1white 1black 1 copper and 1 of a different color this wire runs from switch to fixture to switch from power source tie copper wires together from source ( this is a ground )tie to fixture ground tie black wire together from source this should be the hot leg tie white wire together from source ( this is a Neutral) fourth wire runs from switch to switch wire nut together at fixture follow switch instructions all else fails call electrician
240V is, of course, the phase voltage for three-phase, four-wire, system having a line voltage of 415 V. But these values are 'nominal' voltages, not actual voltages. Actual voltages are allowed to vary above and below the nominal voltage, as specified in the relevant government legislation. Assuming an allowed variation of plus or minus 6%, that means the line-to-neutral voltage could be as low as 225.6 V. So, it would be perfectly normal for you to measure an actual voltage of 230 V, line to neutral, for a system rated at 415/240 V. For many years, the nominal voltage, and allowable variation in the UK was 415/240 V (plus or minus 6%). However, in order to comply with EU 'harmonisation' rules, the nominal voltage is now 400/230 V (plus 10%/minus 6%) -the change in permitted variation allowed the UK to use a new nominal voltage without going to the trouble of actually changing anything -in other words, the UK system remains unchanged, at 415/240 V, but the 'official nominal' value is now 400/230 V, and the difference is catered for by changing the allowable variation!
To change the cord of a dryer from a 3 wire to a 4wire, do the following: 1 remove the wire terminal cover, usually just above where the cord enters the dryer. 2 you will notice three terminals, the center terminal will have a white wire attached with a black or red on either side. The white wire terminal should have a bonding strap attached to it and to the metal frame of the dryer. Remove this bonding strap and save the screw.3 Remove the red and black wires from their terminals. 4 Remove the wire clamp and remove cord. 5 Insert new cord in wire clamp. 6 Connect the white wire to the center terminal. 7 Connect the green wire with that screw you saved to the metal frame of the dryer. 8 Connect the red and black wires to their terminals. 9 Replace terminal cover and you are done!
As you asked this question here, the best thing you can do, to be able to use your hot tub with no worries, is to ask a licensed electrician for advice. He or she can also quote you for installation of the correct type of GFCI outlet, the right sized wiring with separate neutral and ground wires, and the right sized 240 Volt breakers on the main supply panel to power your hot tub safely.If you asked this question because you have no experience of working on household power circuits and you hope to get enough information on this site to be able to do the job properly and safely, it is best to warn you not to rely on getting accurate information from this site about such a potentially dangerous subject. By asking this question you probably aren't quite ready to take on this particular task.Really, don't do this one yourself. 240 Volts is far too dangerous to handle if don't yet know which prongs are which because you have not been trained how to do this work yet.To meet current wiring codes/regulations for your locality (Town/State) a new Ground wire or a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) - to protect you as well as the dryer - may be legally necessary, for instance. If you put just one wire in the wrong place because you do not understand how to wire a 220-240 Volt outlet or appliance correctly - which is clearly why you asked this question - you could easily kill yourself or someone else in your family, or even start a house fire.=== === === === A 3-wire dryer or water heater outlet is only safe to use for its intended purpose: to power a dryer or a water heater.Obviously you can attempt to use it for something else, such as a hot tub, but it is NOT SAFE to do it!You could drive on the wrong side of the road but it is NOT SAFE to do it!You could put your hand into a fire but it is NOT SAFE to do it!In general the reasons for saying it is not safe to use something other than a dryer on a dryer outlet are all about being sure that the circuit you will use for a different appliance (in this case a hot tub) has: * the right size of wires to carry the current the appliance takes and* the right size of breakers on the main supply panel to protect the appliance - and the wiring to it - from catching fire if there is ever a malfunction* the right kind of protective outlet, such as a GFCI, to help prevent someone from getting electrocuted from water splashes or spray. Hot tubs are quite different to clothes dryers: people get wet inside them! You have to be sure you wire them up correctly and safely to avoid there being any kind of risk of anyone getting electrocuted.You also have to be sure that the supply circuit used is of the right kind to protect the house from a house fire. That can happen if there is a malfunction in the hot tub but the circuit breakers on the main supply panel - or the wiring feeding it - are the wrong size. The circuit breakers on the main supply panel - and the wiring feeding the outlet for the hot tub - must all be properly sized and correctly and safely installed. Another important factor to bear in mind is the Wiring Codes/Regulations for your locality (Town/State). in many localities it is now illegal for anyone who is not a licensed electrician to install a 240 Volt circuit in a potentially wet area such as a kitchen, bathroom, shower room, utility room or by a pool. For more information please see the Related Questions shown below. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.If you do this work yourself, always turn off the powerat the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work ANDalways use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
A NEMA 14-30P is a plug. A 14-30R is a 3pole 4wire grounding receptacle for 125/250 volts. To wire the receptacle connect a three wire cable's red and black wires to terminals X and Y respectively. Connect the cable's white wire to the W terminal and the ground wire to the G terminal.