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The higher the mismatch between the load impedance and source impedance, the higher the loading effect.
It really depends on what you're going to do with it. If you're making a sink you want 16 gauge because it's thicker and harder to punch holes in. If you're making a car hood, you want 18 gauge because it weighs less.
Resistance in the length of wire that makes up the extension cord causes voltage to drop. But it needn't be a problem with the right extension cord. For an electric drill, up to a 25 foot cord of 16 gauge wire will cause a voltage drop so small as to be negligible. For 50 feet, switch to a 14 gauge cord. For heavier power tools (circular saw in particular) you should use a 14 gauge extension from the get-go.
Slightly less than cc configuration but greater than cb
because the distance is propotional to the impedance of the line ,so the operation of the impedance relay comes into picture when the impedance seen by the relay is less than the pre-setting value.When a fault occurs ,the current increases to a high value and so the Impedence decreases and the relay actuates
The higher the mismatch between the load impedance and source impedance, the higher the loading effect.
The wire gauge in thin headphone cables is quite small. I have read of people rewiring their headphones using 12 Gauge wire. There are commercial cables that use 11 gauge. The thicker the wire the less the resistance up to a point. Many headphones use 22 or 24 gauge and it seems to work OK.
It really depends on what you're going to do with it. If you're making a sink you want 16 gauge because it's thicker and harder to punch holes in. If you're making a car hood, you want 18 gauge because it weighs less.
Resistance in the length of wire that makes up the extension cord causes voltage to drop. But it needn't be a problem with the right extension cord. For an electric drill, up to a 25 foot cord of 16 gauge wire will cause a voltage drop so small as to be negligible. For 50 feet, switch to a 14 gauge cord. For heavier power tools (circular saw in particular) you should use a 14 gauge extension from the get-go.
Slightly less than cc configuration but greater than cb
There are several variables:First and most important, what will be the current draw? If the total number of amps exceeds the rating of either the power strip or the extension cord you're creating a fire hazard.Second, the wire gauge and length of the extension are important. You will loose voltage over distance and that is a function of the current draw, wire type and wire gauge. If you're trying to run 20 amps, don't use any less than a 12 gauge extension cord up to a maximum of 100 Ft. 15 amps, minimum 14 gauge.
The tube or the FET transistor is used to build an impedance converter from the high impedance of the capacitor (condenser) of about 1 Giga ohms or more to the low impedance of the microphone output, which is less than 150 ohms.
Basically the characteristics of a transformer depends on the impedance(resistance) and on the coupling of its primary and secondary coils. The impedance of a coil depends on the frequency, as the frequency increases you need less volume of iron core and less number of turns in the coil for a given impedance, then reducing the size of the transformer.
If you are talking about the gauge of the wires, then no. Larger guage wires( numerically lower) will pass current required for the appliance with lower losses, so it is better in that reguard Less resistance= less waste( in the form of heat). If you are talking about LENGTH, then yes. The longer the cord, the more losses that occur. Voltage lowers, so current goes up. If the extension cord can't pass the required current, then voltage remains depressed, and you end up with an appliance and extension cord that are running hotter, and less efficient. Worst case; fire.
If both were reactances instead of resistances.AnswerIf one impedance was resistive-inductive (R-L) and the other impedance was resistive-capacitive (R-C), then the effective impedance could be less than either. For example, towards or at resonance, the inductive reactance will negate the capacitive reactance, leaving resistance as the main (or only) opposition to current flow. At resonance, the impedance of a circuit is simply its resistance.
Thicker cable loses less thermal energy.
Sorry, there is no 4 ohm amplifier in the world. It's a myth. A loudspeaker amplifier has an output impedance of less than 0.5 ohm. In hi-fi we have always impedance bridging. Zout << Zin. That means the output impedance of the amplifier is much less than the input impedance of the loud speaker. The damping factor Df = Zin / Zout tells you what Zout is. Zout = Zin/Df. If the damping factor Df = 200 and the loudspeaker impedance is Zin = 4 ohms, the output impedance of the amplifier is Zout = 4 / 200 = 0.02 ohms. You see, there is no "4 ohm amplifier" on the market with a 4 ohm output impedance. Scroll down to related links and look at "Voltage Bridging or impedance bridging - Zout < Zin".