Rephrase the question.
If the appliances all test out and are found to have no short circuits in them then the next step is to check the supply conductors that feed the appliances. This can be easily done by unplugging the appliances and turn on its circuit breaker. When voltage to the appliance circuit causes the breaker to trip. this is the circuit with a fault on it. The most likely place is at the receptacle where the appliance plugs into the power supply. Turn the circuit off at the breaker and inspect the receptacle. If it looks suspicious change it out with a new one.
There could be several reasons why your plugs are not working, such as a blown fuse, a tripped circuit breaker, a faulty outlet, or a problem with the appliance itself. It is recommended to check these potential issues and troubleshoot accordingly to determine the cause of the problem.
If it's rated at 110 then you can safely plug it in to a residential outlet. But, because it is generating heat, it will be drawing substantial voltage so you should ensure that the appliance is on its own circuit; otherwise when someone else turns on a light, or plugs in another appliance, the circuit will overload and shut down.
No it is not a safe thing to do. Safety wise you will be going backwards instead of forwards. The third pin was added as a safety precaution to return fault currents directly back to the distribution panel. This is turn trips the over current breaker instantaneously and removes the fault from the system.
They are parallel. Each plug is in parallel with the other plugs.
It is recommended to use a circuit breaker with a rating of 15-20 amps for plugs and geysers in residential homes. However, it is important to consult an electrician to determine the appropriate circuit breaker size based on the specific electrical load requirements of your plugs and geysers.
Plugs/cords can be purchased from appliance parts stores like www.appliancepartspros.com. Usually on the bag it will tell you how to replace. It is usually just a couple of screws.
An appliance cable or "flex" outlet is a type of electrical outlet which is NOT a "socket outlet" to take plugs for appliances so that they can be plugged and un-plugged. An appliance cable or "flex" outlet has terminals inside it. The terminals allow the wires in an appliance cable or "flex" to be connected to the household wiring in a building. The household wiring comes from the building's main electrical power panel, which carries the main circuit breakers. The circuit breakers are fitted to protect the household wiring from catching on fire if any circuit is overloaded. Such appliance cable or "flex" outlets also have strain-relief clips. A strain-relief clip helps to prevent the cable from being yanked out of the outlet if the appliance gets moved away from the wall where the outlet is installed. Such outlets, with terminals inside and strain-relief clips, are used for fixed appliances, such as ranges or dryers, which should never have to be un-plugged during normal use of the appliance by the user.
You cannot safely plug a 2000 watt 240v appliance into a 120v 20 amp breaker without risking damage or fire hazard. To use the appliance, consider installing a step-up transformer to convert the voltage from 120v to 240v before plugging it in. This will ensure the appliance operates correctly without overloading the circuit.
permanent attachment to an appliance An appliance plug may have a differently shaped plug, in order to prevent it from being plugged into an ordinary electrical outlet (one with the wrong voltage or power rating).
Depending on the appliance, 2 or 3. Receptacles should have 3 to receive either one.
No, Japanese plugs are different from US plugs. Japanese plugs have two flat pins, while US plugs have two flat pins and a round grounding pin. Additionally, the voltage and frequency in Japan are different from the US, so using a US appliance in Japan may require a voltage converter.