The reciprocal of a number or a fraction is just flipping it...for example, the recip of 3 is 1/3 or the recip of 4/5 is 5/4
Cut it with a recip saw
That is approximately 24 tablespoons of water
A recip pump is in the positive displacement family of pumps. PD pumps work by positively displacing a fluid, as with gears meshing, a piston moving back and forth, or a diaphragm pulsing in and out, etc. A recip typically uses piston(s) to move fluids and build up req'd pressure in a system. Recips can develop very high pressures, above 10,000 psi, and are normally low flow devices. There are some high flow, and very expensive, recips being used in pipelines to pump many miles and at relatively high flows.
Add an additional 1/3 of all required ingredients ex: if the recipe asks for a lb of hamburger you would actually require 1 and 1/3 lbs of hamburger
A horse can be any age when their body stops producing the needs to carry a foal. You can have your vet come out and look at your mare and see if she is still able to carry. Many vets don't take recip (mares who carry the foal for other horses) mares over the age of 10 only so they can be sure that the foal will have an equal chance of living. And so they can know that the mare will cycle properly to carry the baby all the way to birth. I have a 22 yr. old mare that we are taking embryos out of and she is still producing beautiful babies and she doesn't have to carry the extra weight of a baby anymore because the recip mare does it for her. I hope that that helps you get a better idea.
Wait, MY roof on YOUR Cutlass, what? I find for this sort of work, the reciprocating saw is by far the best choice. Grinder cutoff tools also work well, but make sparks. Sparks induce fire. The battery powered DeWalt recip saw is hard to beat. Many other brands are also similar in quality and ability. Bosch, makita, Milwaukee. Cheap "Shipwreck Tools" versions- not so much... http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Bare-Tool-DC385B-Cordless-Reciprocating/dp/B002RT7K5K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1359928671&sr=8-2&keywords=dewalt+recip*
A screw type compressor is like a supercharger. You have 2 'screws' which turn in one another compressing the air in the gaps between the screws. A recip compressor is like an engine, except that instead of a fuel/air mix in the pistons driving the crank, the crank is driven in the compressor and the pistons are used to draw in air, compress it then put it in to the system.
According to SOWPODS (the combination of Scrabble dictionaries used around the world) there are 1 words with the pattern RECIP-. That is, six letter words with 1st letter R and 2nd letter E and 3rd letter C and 4th letter I and 5th letter P. In alphabetical order, they are: recipe
Gardner Denver offers a complete line of compressor oils. Each one is application specific. All I am aware of are under the trade name AEON. Small recip compressors use AEON ACHC Rotary Screws may use AEON 4000, AEON 8000, AEON 8000 SP There are many others as well. There is a distributor locator on the Gardner Denver home page. Contact your local person and I am sure they would be happy to help.
Rotary screw compressors are used in many industrial compressed air systems due to the high volume they produce in comparison to reciprocating compressors. Rotary screws take up much less space, require no heavy flywheels, and need less maintenance than the recip. compressors. Oil free compressed air can be produced by large rotary screw compressors designed as such, while reciprocating compressors can do this only on a smaller scale due to the need for cylinder lubrication in the larger models.
The cast of An Eye for a Tooth - 2005 includes: Mehmet Ali Nuroglu as Omer Lorna Bennet as Charlotte Lorna Bennett as Charlotte Halil Nevin Efe as Elif Ana Akin Gazi as Barak Taylan Halici as Efkan Halil Selin Iscan as Zeynep Binnur Izmirli as Ayse Yalcin Kaftanoglu as Cetin Recip Emre Kebir as Harry Halil Halil Kumova as Recep Aga Yunus Kunt as Young Efkan Can Ozan Eryeler as Kadir Alp Sinanoglu as Young Barak
Receip or Piston type compressor are used for large duty cycle work (A/c or other equipments), energy hungry but last longer (Heavy Duty). Where as rotary compressor are energy efficient with higher ( Energy Efficiency Ratio) but lower duty cycle and shorter life. Selection of compressor are based on the nature of application. Normally, for room A/Cs with capacity less than 3 ton, most companies offer rotary compressor due to it's EER and less duty cycle. For heavy duty A/Cs, recip or piston compressor best suited.
MOST LIKELY A COMPRESSOR SHORTED TO GROUND IF 3 PHASE. COMPRESSOR START PARTS OR SHORTED COMPRESSOR- SINGLE PHASE. COULD ALSO BE CONDENSER FAN MOTOR OR CAPACITOR ASSUMING IT STARTS WITH THE PRIMARY COMPRESSOR. WITH POWER OFF, CHECK WITH OHMMETER EACH COMPRESSOR LEAD TILL YOU FIND SHORT (LOW RESISTANCE READING). IF THREE PHASE, IT IS POSSIBLE TO REVERSE MOTOR DIRECTION IN AN ATTEMPT TO FREE UP A FROZEN COMPRESSOR (RECIP ONLY, NOT FOR SCROLL IN THAT THEY ARE ROTATION SPECIFIC). ONCE YOU GET IT GOING OR HAVE COMPRESSOR REPLACED, FIND OUT WHAT CAUSED FAILURE AND FIX IT. IT WILL JUST HAPPEN AGAIN IF YOU DON'T. THEY DON'T JUST WEAR OUT IF MAINTAINED PROPERLY. lc
About ten times. The flipside is that a plane with a PT6 in it costs a LOT more than a plane with a reciprocating engine.Most of the planes that run the PT6 are very different from those that run reciprocating engines; witness the Cessna Caravan. The only "comparable" planes I can think of are the Beech King Air 100 and Baron, and the Mooney Acclaim and Socata TBM850. In both cases, the turboprop is over twice the price of the piston plane. There are advantages to the turboprop, such as reliability and service ceiling, but that still doesn't change the fact that you're going to spend way more money on the plane.
Generally, the easiest job is to replace the door, however matching a frame may be more difficult than replacing the entire door and doorframe. Cost is generally around 80-100, depending upon door quality/pattern/finish. Remove trim carefully so you may replace it later. Use hacksaw blade or recip. saw to cut brads holding frame. Remove frame. Lots of websites you can google to install new doorframe and door. Very easy. You need level, shingle shims, 3 inch brads, hammer, square, centerpunch and putty. You will probably need to plan out what finish the door will need. Repair is time consuming and slightly cheaper. Est. $35-$50, depending upon supplies you may have on hand. Results do not come close to replacement as far as appearance is concerned. Some hollow doors may be patched, assuming there is a hole in the panel. A smooth finish would be required to avoid any patch being visible later. Small holes may be puttied but for a larger hole; Square up the hole with a rectangular pattern cut. Clean edges of the new opening. Cut a plywood backer that may be fitted inside and turned 90 degrees so it may be glued flush to the inside of the new hole. Have a wood screw in the center of the backer to act as a handle. Liberal use of contact cement works well here. A firm pull on the screw and the glue will set the backer onto the inside of the door panel. A tight fitting patch, matching your new cut rectangular hole can now be glued to the backer. One can use bondo, or wood putty/filler to fill the seams. Sand well, you may have to repeat this process to get smooth finish. Then paint entire door.
Answer 1Cut, peel, scrape, repeat. It's a terrible process. Once you get it down so that it's close, you may want to use chemicals to get the rest. Be careful and don't let the fumes build up if you decide to use anything dangerous, and don't use anything flamable when the furnace or water heater pilot light is on. Using chemicals to remove anything like that can be dangerous, take the time to learn how to do it safely. Answer 2It can be a bear of a job. And if the tile is really down firmly, but just worn and something you want to replace, there are a number of good methods to install the new material right over the old. No reason to remove it! Answer 3, SAFETY ALERTIn more than 30 years in fire investigation and prevention, I have seen dozens of instances of attempts to use flammable or combustible liquids for this purpose. The results can be devasting to life, limb, and the structure due to explosions and/or fires. I have either worked [or read about] cases in which people died, and worse, survived but with fingers, noses, ears, and/or faces burned off!!! PLEASE, do NOT attempt to use ANY combustible or flammable liquids, REGARDLESS of turning off [as suggested in answer one] pilot lights, thermostates, electricity, or any other attempts to prevent disaster by reducing potential ignition sources. In spite of eleminating all of these and other ignition sources, static electric or mechanical sparks cannot effectively be eliminated, so all the hazards of fire and/or explosion remain.j3h.Answer_4">Answer 4I'll just tell you how I did it recently for a thrift shop that was trying to put in new flooring, and had some forty year old linoleum tiles glued down to the concrete floor. First off, this type of cement (black stuff) is usually water-soluble. You can just get some rags and towels and wet them, then throw them down, but you'll have to wait overnight, at least. Yes, you can chip away, if you are a sucker for punishment and have a few days to recover from the blisters and fatigue. My way.. I took a bottle of propane and a large torch, of the kind used for roofing jobs, and I heated and softened the old tile, while two other people scraped. One ran a floor scraper under the soft tile, and the other guy (standing off to the side), scraped the debris out of our way as we went along. If we didn't do this frequently, then the debris would get reheated and start to smolder.As easy as this way was, compared to chipping and scraping at the cold tile, it is still exhausting to do all that scraping, and you can get blisters, so we traded off a bit.In a home, I don't know if I would try this method. We had to do a fairly large area in an unfurnished commercial building, and we had to finish that night.We got the job finished in a very short amount of time. After that, all of the debris was taken out and placed in an area where there was no fire hazard and we all sat around and waited for an hour, talking, "just in case". The stuff was quite innocuous, though, and didn't really "want" to burn very badly. The little bit of smoke that was produced was very mild and tolerable. As I recall, linoleum tile was made of boiled linseed oil, talc, and sometimes asbestos (prior to 1960). So, you may be looking at some hazardous materials disposal guidelines and safety issues. If you are not sure, take a sample to a qualified expert to make sure there is no asbestos. As long as the material is not pulverized, and is in a 'non-friable' state, you have much less risk of handling, or even leaving it in, if you plan to floor over it.Personally, I would not be inclined to cement tile down to linoleum flooring, although it can be done. My thinking is that the one weakness of linoleum is the glue and susceptibility to moisture. If you EVER get a leak in the roof, or the sink overflows, or the laundry standpipe trap fails you, you will possibly have your tile-on-tile coming up on you. The damage is usually localized, but repairs could be difficult and costly.Now, A WORD OF WARNING! any time you're playing with fire, you should take special precautions, including having plenty of water and fire extinguishers available, safe apparel and someone there with a cell phone in case there is a problem. You may also need to pull a permit from the fire department.But, you don't even have to use a torch or open flame to heat tiles. You could use an infrared heater, of the kind used for auto body work. The infrared wavelengths actually penetrate the material and heat it from the inside out. You could also use a heat gun, or even a hair blow dryer, although this would take considerably longer, but it could be done. The whole point is to get the tiles hot, in the safest way possible, and then get them up and off the floor. Naturally, you do not want to leave any heating equipment unattended, even for a short while. Many buildings have burned because everyone thought that someone else turned off the equipment before they all went home that night.For the cautious, there is always the water method.. certainly much safer, but slower, and you will have to pay attention to risks of water staining and damage to surrounding areas. A "thirsty" material (hydrophilic) which holds water for a long time is the perfect choice for this job.There is absolutely NO need to use solvents or petrochemicals or high VOC cleaners to remove or clean up after these tiles. Hot water will do a lot! A little glue will remain on the floor, but it should not matter, when you are trowelling on your adhesive for your ceramic tiles or your new linoleum tiles. Just remember that for linoleum, there must be absolutely NO particle of any small thing, or it will disfigure and damage the new floor when it begins to poke through (it will, trust me).Good luck, and be careful!Answer 5I have similar problem but I want to glue down hardwood. Sheet vinyl has been glued down for about 40 years. (looks like crap by this time. Not knowing what to do I tried the scraper attachment for a reciprocating saw. Worked decent but broke 2 blades before finishing a 3'x4' area. Had already bought the roofer type torch and tried heating the glue after I scraped the vinyl off.Didn't work all that great as I was working alone. Then I found the answer that worked for me.The Magic: Acetone. First use the blade on the reciprocating saw to remove the vinyl top. This is not a commercial but if you haven't seen the commercials they are made by Spyder and are available at Lowes, I don't know where else. My vinyl top came off pretty easy. Then pour a little acetone on a small area of the remaining glue. After setting a very short time, the clue scrapes off pretty easy. I am still using the blade on the recip saw to scrape. Obviously scrape the glue off before the acetone evaporates. I hope it works for you as well as it worked for me.Regards.