Yes, I have performed this service to numberous pre 1990 vehicles, both injection and carberated, with dramatic results. The service will clean the Oxygen sensor and the catalytic converter and the vehicle will most probably pass smog like the ones I performed the service to. My email address is more.power@sbcglobal.net as I have not signed in.
It's portableIt is a physical form to put on a store shelfIt can often be played on multiple devicesIt's easier to use on multiple devices, especially if the devices are olderIt can enhance the data stored on the media by including album art, artist info, etc.
It's portableIt is a physical form to put on a store shelfIt can often be played on multiple devicesIt's easier to use on multiple devices, especially if the devices are olderIt can enhance the data stored on the media by including album art, artist info, etc.
Well you can bottle feed it but if you cant then the baby might die,it depends how old it is.No. It would die if you only did just that! Here's the preferred way:Food:Okay, get a realllly small syringe (or and eyedropper- whichever works best for you and him) and use that to feed him kitten milk formula: KMR works the best. The powdered onr, not the liquid. Mix 1 part powder and two parts water. The instructions are somewhere on the container. Make sure the milk is room temperature before you put some of it into the syringe. Hold him the best way that's comfortable for you and him, only squeezing a little bit out of the syringe at once. The baby will push it away when he's done drinking. If he's healthy, the baby's poop will be an orangey-yellowish color. Feed him once an hour, every hour, even at night, until he gets old enough the space out the feedings. It just depends on his age.Bedding/HomeA small plastic critter cage sold at most pet stores would work best. Fill it with bedding such as a few socks, and old folded up tee-shirt, etc. DO NOT use anything like wood shavings or sawdust until the baby is older, because he could suffocate in it, or inhale all the microscopic bits of wood-dust, which would be very, very bad. Also, please do not use anything that he could get his feet caught in. I folded a small rag and placed it at the bottom of mine, so that the edges of the rag were propped up against the critter cage, but smoothed out at the bottom (If you're going to use that technique, make sure the sides are also smoothed out so that the baby can't accidentally fall/get stuck in there.) After that, I took the polyester fluff from a stuffed animal that my dog tore up and lined the cage with that. Leave a small area clear of the fluff at the beginning, before he gets used to his new home. Then you can rearrange everything into a sea of awesome fluffiness. When it gets to stuffy, musty, or smelly, I would recommend changing out the bedding. You should probably leave the lid off until it's eyes are opened. 5. Do not stack bedding too high in the mouse-house!HeatingIf your baby mouse is too stay alive, he/she will need warmth. It is recommended to put the home six or seven inches under a small, weak heating lamp, but a normal lamp could also be used, too. But keep in mind that the lamp's light bulb will have to be low enough to provide warmth to the creature inside. Without the warmth, he would surely die, for in the wild a mother mouse would have provided warmth, along with the many brothers and sisters.Other1. Always be gentle; keep in mind that he is only a baby.2. It is recommended to dip your finger in warm, not hot, water and rub it over his/her private area to stimulate the mouse to go to the bathroom. In the wild, the mother mouse would do this by licking it there.3. After it eats, many baby mouse owners will VERY, VERY GENTLY rub the baby mouse with thumb and forefinger to help digestion take place.4. If a mouse doesn't survive and you've taken super great care of it, its not your fault. All you can do is hope that he will and provide everything he needs. Two of mine went like that. They're just so fragile and delicate; my strongest baby went down for no clear reason in particular. But it'll be okay.When Mousy Is OlderIt is harder to keep only one baby mouse, because they are social animals. When it is older get him/her a friend. If a boy and girl mouse are put together, they will breed. Two or three girl mice probable wont fight, but boys will, especially over a female. The boys also fight over the position of the alpha mouse. They fight until one is dead, even if the opposite mouse is from the same litter. But a friend a friend when its older would be good so it doesn't die of loneliness!!When the baby is big enough (if it survives) then place it in a larger cage. Critter trail cages made by Super Pet work really good, with lots of places to explore and everything. You'll also need the correct size water bottle and food bowl. Do notfeed him guinea pig or rabbit food. Only feed it mouse food bought from a local, well known pet store. It is good to provide a comfortable bedding material, because mice are naturally adapted to burrowing. Also, try not to feed the mouse tap water if your water comes from a well. If your going to build a cage, do not use wood because mice chew right through wood. Don't use anything that would be bad for/hurt the mouse. Mice truly don't need a lot of room to survive, but it is best to give it plenty of space. The mouse also needs rodent blocks to chew on so his teeth will be kept nice and trimmed. It might even be nice to add one of those miniature salt or mineral licks, and a tiny private house for him sold at pet stores that carry rodent supplies.When he's older you don't need to worry about him being mean to you or scared of you, because he will see you as his mommy if you've taken care of him since he's a baby.Links To Consider:Superpet (Critter-trail Cages)Adult Mouse Care GuideHow_do_you_care_for_a_baby_mouse_with_fur_and_shut_eyesRat & Mouse Club of America