Look very closely for a serial number stamped on the unit. The suggested course of action is to take the alternator to an auto parts store to see if they can recognize what vehicle the alternator should belong to. Automotive alternators are three phase and should have a full wave diode bridge concealed within the alternator housing. If you open the alternator case, the diode bridge will have diode numbers or a number stamped on the bridge network. Cross referencing this number to other diode bridges will tell you what amperage the alternator should be able to output. If you find a number there let the automotive parts store see if they can find a substitute for it.
The current is the amperage. It is measured in series. Voltage is measured across the line (parallel).
9 Volts. By connecting this way you increase current potential (amperage) but not voltage.
Any of the multi testers that I have come across are not frequency sensitive. I use a Fluke process meter and it can be used to measure frequency if that scale is selected. Voltage is voltage, amperage is amperage and resistance is resistance regardless of what he frequency is.
Ohm's law states that the voltage across a resistor is the product of the current times the Resistance or V=I x R (I times R). V is Voltage, R is Resistance, and I is Current or Amperage. So if the Voltage is doubled and Resistance stays the same, the Current will be doubled.
The easiest way to check any alternator in a car is to have the vehicle running and use a VOLT meter to read across that battery terminals. The voltage should be in the range of 13.4 volts to 14.5 volts..no lower, no higher. If either low voltage or high voltage exist, that alternator is probably defective.
Alternator is rated at 110 amps. The alternator should provide the voltage required to run the engine. It should handle the system current load. Check the alternator if there is a charge voltage. Turn the engine off and measure the voltage across the two battery terminals with a DC volt meter. Start the engine and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Look for an increase in voltage on the volt meter. Typically it can go as high as 14.7 volts. If the voltage stays the same as when measuring the across the terminals with the engine off, the alternator is probably bad. If the voltage is charging but not much higher than when the engine is in the off position, some diodes could have burned out in the alternator. Also check the charging wires and ground wires coming from the battery.
If a secondary voltage is given across a particular resistive load in a series of known resistive loads, multiply the voltage by the ratio of the total load to the measures load to get total voltage. Example: You have a series of a 200 ohm resistor to a 100 ohm resistor. The votage measured across the 100 ohm is 2 volts. 200 + 100 = 300. 300 / 100 = 3. 2 X 3 = 6. Total Voltage in the circuit is 6V
Start car. Turn on all lights, blower etc., that you can. Read voltage across battery terminals. If voltage is 13.5 or more then your alternator is okay. This assumes you have clean connections, good cables.
A Voltage Regulator is just a Zener Diode that is wired across the alternator terminals. ... no. Doing this will blow the zener - don't try it at home or anywhere else.
A Voltage Regulator is just a Zener Diode that is wired across the alternator terminals. ... no. Doing this will blow the zener - don't try it at home or anywhere else.
The amperage of the circuit increases and the voltage drop across the appliances will tend to increase.
Check fuses first. If fuses are good, check the voltage from the negative battery cable to where the wire bolts onto the back of the alternator. (With the engine running). If you can't reach the back of the alternator, then measure across the posts of the battery. Voltage should be about 14 volts DC. If lower than that, replace the alternator. When you replace an alternator, it's a good idea to replace the battery, as a precaution.