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The short answer is: get a qualified technician to do the job. However, it seems as though the local techs have fallen down on the job in your case, so that becomes a glib reply.

As a 34-year HVAC veteran, here's how I would approach this repair.
1. I would confirm that the leak you found was the onlyleak, or I'd identify any others for repair as well, using an electronic leak detector.
2. I'd identify the refrigerant used in your system, and the amount remaining. If it was low enough to draw in air and/or moisture through any of the leaks, I'd proceed to step 5.
3. If the refrigerant is R-410A and most had leaked out, I'd also proceed to step 5.
4. If neither 2 or 3 applied, I'd now go to step 6.
5. If 2 or 3 applied, I'd "recover" the remaining refrigerant into a recovery cylinder using recovery equipment. Then I'd repair the leaks and leak-check them using dry nitrogen, not exceeding the test pressure of the system. After confirming that there were no more leaks, I'd "evacuate" the system to 500 microns vacuum. Finally, I'd "weigh in" the refrigerant using a digital scale like the "Wey-Tek" which is accurate to .5 oz., and match the condensing unit's nameplate refrigerant charge rating.
6. I'd clean the condenser fins using a commercial cleaner or Fantastik.
7. I'd clean the blower using a pressure washer or a carwash.
8. I'd clean or replace the air filters.
9. I'd confirm the airflow through the furnace or air-handler. It must equal or exceed 400 CFM per ton of cooling capacity: if your system has 2 tons capacity (a common size), there must be at least 800 CFM of airflow. I personally use a hotwire anenometer to measure airflow in the ductwork, but the "temperature rise method" works quite well, too. If the airflow is too low, I'd look for problems like blocked vents or registers, or poorly designed ductwork.
10. I'd start the unit and adjust the refrigerant charge using either the "superheat method" for fixed-orifice systems, or the "subcooling method" for TX valve systems.



To have this done correctly, you need the services of a qualified technician. Here in Ontario, that means at minimum the holder of a 313A or 313D ticket. In the United States, look for someone with NATE certification. In any case, make sure they're following the above procedure to charge your system.


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