Proof coins are specially struck using polished blanks and low-speed presses that strike a deep, detailed image. They're put in sealed packages for sale to collectors. Modern proofs have mirrorlike backgrounds and frosted ("matte") images.
If your coin is dated 1968 or later, proof coins are relatively easy to identify because they all have an "S" mint mark on them. The only possible confusion would be if the coin is a cent from 1968-74 or a nickel from 1968-70, when San Francisco struck those denominations for circulation. All other S mint coins from 1968 onward are proofs only.
Earlier proofs were struck at Philadelphia so they're more difficult to identify.
Proof coins sometimes find their way into circulation when a set is broken open. That can happen if a set is stolen and the thief doesn't know what he has; sometimes small children will open Mommy's or Daddy's proof sets to get at the "shiny coins". Unfortunately if a proof coin has been spent, its value is significantly reduced.
You can determine a proof coin by examining its features. Proof coins typically have a mirror-like finish, with deeply frosted, raised design elements. They are often struck multiple times to showcase fine details. Additionally, proof coins are usually sold in protective cases or holders and may come with a certificate of authenticity.
A Proof coin is a particular issue of a coin not a grade of condition.
A proof coin has a special shiny finish on it and it is made to be sold to collectors, and not used as money.
The term "proof" has to do with how the coin was produced in the first place, rather than the condition of the coin.
A proof coin is made from a highly polished planchet (blank) and struck more than once to produce a highly detailed relief. Proof coins are sold to collectors and are not put into general circulation.
A frosted proof coins were issued by the US Mint prior to 1936. In appearance they have a mirrorlike field [[the field of a coin is the flat areas not covered by the design]]with the design of the coin appearing to be frosted or dull in comparison to the field. This type of proof was again used on proof coins in the late 1970s and are refered to as "cameo" proofs. A mirror proof [[also called a Brilliant Proof]] has a mirrorlike surface over the entire coin. This type of proof was issued by the Mint from 1936 until sometime in the late 1970s.
By looking for wear. In practice, it doesn't matter what grade your silver eagle is, it will simply sell for bullion. The only thing to look is if your coin is proof or bullion. A proof coin will have mirror-like fields where you can see yourself like a mirror. An uncirculated coin may look shiny but it won't be nearly as shiny as a proof.
A Proof coin is a particular issue of a coin not a grade of condition.
the 3 coin proof set with 2 silver proof one dollar coins and one 10 dollar proof gold coin is worth about $550.00 retail the 3 coin proof set with 2 silver proof one dollar coins and one 10 dollar proof gold coin is worth about $550.00 retail
A proof coin is not mass produced. It is individually pressed using polished dies.
A proof coin has a special shiny finish on it and it is made to be sold to collectors, and not used as money.
yes
If the coin is a Proof coin it is worth about $20 USD. If it is not a proof coin and is uncirculated it is worth about $12 USD. (2/28/2010)
Even with a Proof coin grade drives value. So from $3,000.00 to $20,000.00.
The term "proof" has to do with how the coin was produced in the first place, rather than the condition of the coin.
"PL" in coin grading means "prooflike". It is used to describe a coin that has mirror fields and fine details resembling a proof struck coin but is not a true proof.
Usually. A coin in Proof condition is almost always more valuable than the same coin in Uncirculated condition, but exceptions do exist.
It is really hard to describe what a proof coin looks like in text. But the coin will have mirror-like fields (the part of the coin with no design) and will be exceptionally well struck. All bands on the reverse of the coin should be distinguishable and separate. A 1941 proof dime is worth quite a bit and should never be handled with your hands as the oils will damage the delicate surfaces. Instead, if you think you have a proof coin, take it to a coin dealer and he will tell you if it is indeed a proof dime or merely a business strike coin.