How do you assemble a ball jointed doll?

Answer 1

Supply list:

• Unstrung doll

• Elastic cord (1/4" or a little thinner, you can get it from from Kemper Dolls. )

• Hemostats, at least one pair

• Chopsticks

• Stringing tool or pipe cleaner (if needed)

It's wise to label the doll parts--or make sure you can identify the left and right pieces--so you don't have to restring the doll more than once. You can label each piece with a small L or R to identify them before unstringing, if the doll isn't already in pieces.

If the doll isn't already in pieces: most companies make it easy to unstring their dolls. Do this by removing your doll's hands and feet. You will probably pull out two loops of elastic. If your doll's hands and feet are on o-rings, you will need to remove the doll's head (open the head cap, and twist the S hook to the side, and slip it through the neck opening) first. Then, slip the elastic off the S hook. You should be able to pull the elastic cords.

The elastic you remove may still be in usable condition. Signs of wear include too-stretchy elastic, worn places, or elastic that has been discolored or stretches unevenly. The loop sizes will give you a general idea of the length you need. Don't cut to size yet, though.

Now, we'll get started with the actual assembly/restringing process. Make a loop with your elastic, and push the loop through one upper arm piece. If you need to use a stringing tool, use it. Push the tool through the arm, hook the elastic loop through the tool, and then pull the elastic through the arm. If you don't have a stringing tool, try threading the loop with a pipe cleaner, and pushing that through the canal.

Now, push the loop through the lower arm. If your doll has double-jointed arms, there may be an elbow piece in between. Don't forget to check that the pieces fit together, and they are right side up before threading them together.

Thread the wrist joint onto the loop. Tightened your elastic as you go.

For now, use a chopstick as a placeholder for the hand. This will make it easier for you to adjust the tension later.

Thread the elastic through the torso. The longer side of the elastic will go through both arm sockets. The shorter piece of elastic is threaded through the torso only, and down to the bottom of the torso.

On the opposite arm, make a loop with the remaining elastic, and thread the longer piece of elastic back through the unstrung arm socket. Both pieces of elastic should meet in the torso. You'll have one arm strung with pieces, and a loop on the other side.

At this point, take the hemostats and hold both elastic ends and clamp them. They don't have to be tight--just so you don't lose them while you're stringing the other arm.

Now, push the elastic through the unstrung arm pieces, just like you did the first arm in the above photos.

Now comes the exciting part: adjusting the tension. Use an "inchworm" method in order to save on elastic. Basically, you'll be pulling only one side of the elastic to tighten. Keep one side of the elastic clamped with the hemostats to keep it from slipping. Feed one side of the elastic through the entire length of the doll's stringing to tighten.

This is the most time-consuming part of restringing, but it's important. Too-tight stringing can risk chipping resin and really kicky dolls. If you string too loosely, your doll will be floppy and won't hold a pose. So use a trial and error method to get a tension that feels right.

A doll that is strung well will be able to hold a pose without feeling too kicky. Some kickiness is good--it's a sign of fresh elastic. And you can suede a doll to help this a bit, too. As soon as you have a tension that feels good for you, tie a knot. Surgical knots are great. Or, slip the ends through the arm hole and tie a square knot. Then gently pull the knot back through arm hole to the torso.

Trim off extra elastic, but leave some ends, just in case you need to re-tie.

Now, attach the hands, carefully removing the chopsticks.

If your doll has hands with S-hooks, you'll want to use the hemostats to hold the elastic while you hook them on. If your doll has resin hooks, be very careful not to snap off the hooks while stringing. Superglue can fix most resin breaks, but not hooks. They hold too much tension.

Next, you'll continue to the lower body. Make sure you have all the pieces, and label them as necessary. Estimate the amount of string you need. Fold it over in a loop, and then thread the O-ring on it. If your doll has an S-hook, just put it aside for now. Thread one loop through each leg opening. Insert the stringing tool through the piece you want to string.

Hook the wire over the elastic, and pull the elastic all the way through the canal.

Thread the lower leg in the same manner. Don't forget the knee piece, if your doll has double-jointed legs.

Next, string the ankle joint. Instead of stringing the foot, use a chopstick as a placeholder. You will be more easily able to adjust the tension on your doll than if a hook is attached to the elastic this way. Repeat this process on the other leg.

Tighten the elastic in the doll's legs, and re-estimate the length of the elastic.