there is no clutch cable its hydraulic
With my Audi the Hydraulic Clutch uses the break resavoir so as long as the break resavoir is filled up then you will be fine.
Yes and self adjustable, and heavy duty clutch, thus when you press the clutch in, its quite heavy
My 2.3 is hydraulic Audis have a hydraulic clutch system, with a master cylinder (in car on firewall) and a slave cylinder (outside on transmission) with a metal tube between them (which looks like a brake line).
I DON'T THINK THEY CAN BE ADJUSTED,BECAUSE IT OPERATE ON FLUID. MY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS PROBLEM RESULTED IN CHANGING OF THE CLUTCH SLAVE AND IT SOLVED THE PROBLEM. OF COURSE THIS WAS A DIFFERENT BRAND OF CAR.
a similaar thing happened on my cavalier when the cable snapped, check to see if there is a clutch cable, if the system is hydraulic has something similar happened? loss of hydraulic fluid or the like. Audis have a hydraulic clutch system, with a master cylinder (in car on firewall) and a slave cylinder (outside on transmission) with a metal tube between them (which looks like a brake line). One of the cylinders may be blown or the trouble could be the clutch itself, but most likely one of the cylinders needs to be rebuilt.
You can get a starter rebuilt kit for an 86 Audi 4000 Quattro CS at auto part stores. You can also check with local salvage yards.
The best way to bleed the system is to make sure the pedal is up off the floor, and the resevior is full, remove the slave from the trans, open the bleeder screw push the rod into the slave, close the screw, let the rod move back out slowley,,, repeat this until the rod is feels solid. Now open the bleeder screw and slide the slave into the trans all the way, then close bleeder screw and install the pin. top of fluid....
at the compresser
Clutch interlock switch may be misaligned or faulty.
The 2014 Audi SQ5's engine produces 347 ft-lbs. @ 4000 rpm.
To remove the clutch the vehicle would need suspending to access better. After it as been lifted the motor mount and clutch can be removed. Replace and return parts.
www.autorepairdb.com/audi/clutch1.html has a guide for a 1998 V6. I think the procedure is pretty similar to 1995.
Replace it with a new one. Its not worth repairing.
The 2014 Audi RS-5's engine produces 316 ft-lbs. @ 4000 rpm.
The 2013 Audi RS-5's engine produces 317 ft-lbs. @ 4000 rpm.
The clutch kit for a 1999 Audi A4 cost between $190 and $255. If a person makes the change themselves it won't cost anything more. However, if a mechanic is involved it can cost between $300 and $400+.
You have to bleed your brakes, there is air pockets in the lines...
Yes. unless you bypass the safety device that prevents your car from starting if you dont have the clutch pressed.
Probably not. One is a Audi part, the other is a Volkswagen part. Just get the correct parts.
When it starts slipping :). It really depends on the driver. Normal range is anywhere from 100,000 miles to 175,000. If you do a lot of stop and go driving your clutch will wear out faster. If you are always cruising, then your clutch will last longer. To see if you clutch is slipping. Get to about 40-45mph in 5th gear (or 6th if you have it) and then quickly step on the gas. If you see the RPMs rise but the car is not accelerating then your clutch is starting to slip and should be changed in the near future.Just as an example go to www.autorepairdb.com/audi/clutch1.html to see what all is involved in changing the clutch.
The flasher is right above the fuse box, pull it out, and replace it with a good one.
The type of hydraulic oil you want is at any place that services audi, skoda, seat or vw....it a special oil so don't go throwing anything in there....hope that helps