This is how I broke down my 12 bolt on my 68.
First, disconnect the drive shaft from the rear end using the two c-clips bolted to the yoke on the rear end. Now you need to drain most of the fluid by unscrewing the square plug toward the fron of the rear end. Once it stops gushing out (you need a drip pan under it the whole procedure just to keep your floor clean) unscrew all the bolts securing the diff. cover. Just inside you can see two C-shaped clamps around the ends of the axles with bolts at the tops and bottoms. Unbolt those. Turn the wheels until you see a bolt going through the casing around the diff and unscrew it. There is a thick cylinder (pin) running through the diff that now slides right out by just pushing it with your finger. The two little gears at the top and bottom of the main pin will then be loose. You may have to turn the axles a little for those to slide out. Then, remove the rear wheels. My rear end has drums. If you have rear discs, the procedure might be different. I don't know. Push the axle in toward the rear end. It should slide pretty easily. Once it's in as far as you can push it, you should be able to see a C clip holding the gears on the ends of the axles. If you can't see them, slide the gears along the axles till you can get to the clips. They too should slide right out. The gears slip off the axle and now you can slide the axles out throught the axle tubes. From here the rest of the diff comes right out and all you have left are the axle bearings at the ends of the axle tubes and the pinion toward the front. For the axle bearings you need to get a special tool from autozones tool loan program. If you don't know about it, you put a deposit down on the tool and they loan it to you. Once you bring it back, you get a full refund. The tools you need are a set of axle bearing pullers and a slide hammer. The design of them is pretty self explainatory so I'm not going to explain in detail how to use them. Remove the bearings using the tools. Next, there is a 1 1/8" nut on the end of the yoke that you need to remove. Unscrew the nut on the yoke and use a hammer banging on the underside of the yoke. Do this carefully but it may take some time because it is pressed into the spline of the pinion. Once you get that off, there is a seal that is fairly easy to get off with a flat head screwdriver. Now, very carefully, us a mallet or ball ping hammer to tap the bolt end of the pinion out the other end. Make sure not to damage the threads or you'll be buying a new pinion. I would suggest using a 2x4 piece of wood so the hammer doesn't hit the bolt directly. This will take some force because it was pressed into the opening and feels like it's not budging at first. Once that's out, it's just a matter of pulling apart the misc. parts you already pulled out. Hope this helps.
will a 1988 rear end fit under a 1965 chevy truck
Yes it should
What are the dimensions of 05 Chevy truck
A 1977 Chevy pickup truck would have rotors in front and drums in the rear
chevy suburban is mounted on a truck frame so most rear ends from any truck or tahoe which is also a truck will work if it is a late model 6 lug.
was driving down the road in my 1989 chev truck 1500 and heard a noise of some kind from my rear-end and then the rear wheels would not spin
how to replace the rear seals on a 1991 Chevy S-10 pick-up truck
On the front of the truck, rear hinged.
you have to take the seat out and pull off all of the rear paneling however this is really hard to do. the panels can break very easly. your best bet would be to take it to a pro.
overhauling a cylinder is a job for a pro, and not recommended...replace it with a new one..
If your asking about the gear ratio, Then write the VIN # down and call a Chevy dealer and ask for parts. Then ask the parts man if he'll tell you the gear ratio and that you have the VIN# on you truck. He'll tell you what the gear ratio is from the factory.
4x6