If you have a 1987 Saab 900 here is the rough overview. disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery. Remove the turbo boost pipes (if it's a turbo) and then remove the black plastic flywheel/clutch shroud. If your slave cylinder still works then have someone step on the clutch and hold it while you insert a "ring" to keep the clutch depressed after the slave is released (person lets up on the pedal). Some guys use an old spark plug wire for this "ring". I use a piece of #6 solid copper wire (no insulation) formed into a ring. You place this ring under the fingers of the clutch cover so that it holds the springs and pressure plate in the fully depressed position. This can be tedious and you must get the pressure plate fully depressed or you'll be screwed later in the process. If your slave is non-functional, forget the assistant stomping the clutch pedal, (and if you don't have the big lever tool that Saab provided their dealers with), back off all the bolts holding the clutch cover to the flywheel (don't remove them) and using pry bars or large screwdrivers pry the cover away from the flywheel and place spacers to hold. work your way around until the cover is spaced away fron the flywheel evenly. you may have to graduate spacers and go around more than once and you may have to install longer bolts as you go. If you remove to many bolts at once and the cover slips off of being concentric you'll be sorry. The loose bolts act as alignment pins, see. Also don't let a spacer fall out as you pry for the next one (tape). Another trick is to replace the cover bolts with longer bolts with a nut between the cover and flywheel and then just back off the nuts which will lift the cover. That method is foolproof but you have to have the right bolts and nuts. Once the clutch is fully released insert the aforementioned "ring". Next, crack loose the hose at the slave. Get it finger tight. Remove the three bolts that hold the slave to the transmission. If these are the correct 5mm Allen bolts you may have to make a stubby Allen wrench. Pop the retaining spring and remove the round cover plate and flat o'ring at the front/top of the trans. and carefully unscrew the 4-winged plastic thrust device from the end of the clutch shaft. insert a short bolt and use a pry bar to pop out the shaft. draw the shaft as far out as it will come. Remove the (loose) bolts from the clutch cover/flywheel, pry the slave toward the flywheel until it is free and enjoy lifting the entire assembly; friction plate, clutch cover and slave out as a unit. The alignment pins in the flywheel make this extra tricky and rotating both the flywheel (engine) and clutch cover may be necessary. By the way, the safe way to turn the engine when needed is to jack up one front wheel, remove the spark plugs, keep the car in 1st gear and turn the wheel. Like I said if you fail to depress the clutch fully before inserting the "ring" you won't be able to squeeze the three pieces (disc, cover and slave) together enough to clear and remove. See if you can borrow the Saab tools from your mechanic friend at the dealership (lots a luck). If you are just doing the slave then assembly is the reverse of disassembly (right?). If you're replacing the clutch don't forget to have your flywheel machined and replace the pilot bearing. Torque all your bolts carefully, don't over-torque and apply some blue Locktight (med. strength) to the flywheel/crankshaft bolts and the flywheel/ clutch cover bolts. Put a little "Permatex #2 (non-hardening) on the little slave/trans. case bolts. After you get your new slave in here is the best trick for bleeding it fast and easy. Attach a two foot long piece of clear plastic hose (hardware store) to the bleed nipple on the slave. Hold the hose upright and carefully pour fluid in the hose Open the nipple and apply a little air pressure to force the fluid through. I just wipe clean the hose and blow but you could use compressed air (2 psi) if you are squeamish. Tighten the nipple just before the tubing is empty. Of course, keep an eye on your master cylinder fluid level. If your clutch shaft seal is leaking they are very difficult to remove. Here's my trick; Obtain an old Saab 900 manual transmission layshaft. When we rebuild we often throw these away. Insert the end with the groove/hook into the seal and lay it back. The seal will pop right out. Use only a genuine Saab replacement seal, others will fail. If you have removed the flywheel for machining, replace the crankshaft seal too. Buy a REAR crankshaft seal of course. Good luck!
If it is a Saab 9000, you have to remove the tranny, and that may sound daunting, but it really is only a matter of knowing what to take off and in what order. Not that bad of a job once you get into it.
Go to http://www.quasimotors.com/clutch.htm
Here you will find the complete procedure, with color pictures, diagrams, warnings, etc. Everything you need, and easier to follow than the Shop Manuel. I used this info to change mine in a 90 Saab 9000 Turbo, and it was dead on . . . however, you best plan on it taking the whole weekend . . .
If you follow the line from the clutch master cylinder it will lead you along the driver's side of the vehicle towards the front of the car. You will have to move the hose from the air intake to be able to view the slave nipple. It is located above where the line goes into the slave cylinder. We lossened this nipple with a size 13mm socket and were able to open and close with our hand. Hope that helps!
yes, same engine.
You don't because there isn't one. Your car has a hydraulic clutch--there's a master cylinder on the pedal and a clutch cylinder on the side of the transmission.
Like all cars, Saab 900s have brakes. The calipers are part of the braking system. The braking system was basically the same on all Saab 99s and 900s from 1975 to 1987. What's the question?
It is a Saab 1.9tid vector sport
replace alternator Saab 2000 4 cylinder 9-5
Buy a new ignition lock cylinder with new keys or see a SAAB dealer. You'll need the VIN code.
Lots of work. Need to remove portions of space frame on driver's side along with transmission. Difficult task if you don't have a transmission jack to align and shove tranny back in.
Motorweek - 1987 2008 Saab 9-3 27-19 was released on: USA: 11 January 2008
you eat pie
No. At least they didn't USED to all have turbos. In the 1995 models, there were at least two engine choices, a turbocharged 4 cylinder and an non-turbo 6 cylinder. WINK adds: The first SAAB, the 1950 model 92, had a two-cylinder, 750cc, two-stroke engine. The first turbocharged Saab was the 1978 Saab 99 Turbo, which started the turbocharging revolution for smaller engined sedans.
That is correct. On 1987 and later 900s the dashboard lights come on whenever the ignition is switched to ON.
== == That is how you change the actual headlight but the question is how to change a fuse.
Just need a key
Answer: Saab H series engines, starting in 1981 with the B201, and ending with the B205/235, in use through 2009, were designed and built by Saab in Sweden. They are a redesign of the Saab B engine (1972), which was based on a Triumph engine (1964).Saab's 4-cylinder engines are built by Saab in Sodertalje, Sweden.
go to thesaabsite.com look up faq's for ignition switch
no i dont know what where talking about. lol.d''
To change oil in Saab 9-3 the hood will need to be opened and then the oil drained by using the drain pan. With the oil plug removed, the oil can now be changed.
because a Saab has cam pistons , so your Saab is a 2.5 liter v6.it runs at a low rpm because you probably need to change the MOTOR OIL. people have been asking me that!!!
it is a timing change, no need to replace
Saab Magalona goes by Saab.
The clutch master cylinder is supplied from the brake fluid reservoir via a rubber tube.
"Yes, there are Saab dealerships in the UK. Saab City is probably the most popular and most well known of these. There is also Robert Bowett Saab Leeds, Stratstone Saab Northampton, and Skurrays Saab."
With your hands....