How do you change shock absorbers in a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee?

Answer 1

just make sure to put the jack under the body and not the frame, then loosen the nuts. you should have no problem.

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NOTE: I did not use a jack to replace my shocks. Using the jack can help you lift the body so you don't have to compress the shock as far to get it into place.

The rear shocks are pretty simple - it's about a 30 minute job. You will need a 15mm socket, an 18mm socket a ratchet and an 18mm combination wrench.

The front shocks are simple - with the right tools, it's about a 60 minute job; with basic tools it is a 2 hour job. You will need a 13mm socket, a 15mm socket a ratchet, a short (1 1/2 - 3 inch) extension and a 13mm combination wrench. Additionally, a 15mm deep socket, speed handle and a 15mm offset box-ratchetwill shave 60 minutes off the install time.

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE - CHECK YOUR SUSPENSION!

There are two different types of suspension on the 1997 (ZJ) model - standard and "Up Country" The parts cost for the "Up Country" is about 3X the price of the standard. The front shock is the same physical form factor for both types of shock but, the "Up Country" is a MonoTube type - a much stiffer shock; physically, the two versions are interchangeable. If the line card for the vehicle shows "Quardacoil Suspension", you have the standard suspension. The "Up Country" package also has taller, stiffer springs and may have tow hooks (mine did not).

The REAR Shocks...The "Up Country" and the standard suspension both use a shock that has a loop on each end. The bottom loop is secured to a "U" bracket on the rear axle and has a bolt with a 15mm head one one side and an 18mm self-locking nut on the other. The top loop secures to a stud up on the frame rail with an 18mm nut.

The drivers side is really easy - do this side first - there is a cutout in the plastic wheel well liner that allows you to come at it from the side of the vehicle. I noticed this when I was under the car and had already removed the upper nut and lower bolt (need to remember that for next time). Remove the lower bolt, push up on the lower tube, swing the shock down and slide the top off the stud. Don't forget to save and reinstall the metal washer that is between the nut and the loop on the shock. This be the thing that drops to the ground when you pull the shock off the stud unless you noticed it, slid it off and carefully set it aside with the nut.

To install the new shock, reverse the procedure. Put the top on the stud, compress the bottom into the "U" bracket and insert the bolt. Reinstall the nuts. You did remember the washer on the top stud - right? Tighten it all up. Done! Lets move on to the passenger side.

On this side, you get to work around the (hot) exhaust pipe and there is no cutout in the wheel well plastic. I had a problem getting a socket on the upper stud nut and had to use the combination wrench - so it took a bit more time. The process is exactly the same.

The FRONT Shocks...The "Up Country" and the standard suspension both use a shock that has a stem on the top end and a bottom loop bar/cross pin on the bottom. The bottom is secured to the lower arm with two bolts 13mm heads one one side and 13mm self-locking nut on the other. The top stem passes through the body into the engine compartment and secures to the shock mount. The nut on top of the stem is a 15mm nut. This is where the deep socket and box-ratchet wrench comes in really handy.

The passenger side is fairly easy - do this side first - the shock stem is located by the coolant reservoir and can easily be removed with the deep socket and a speed handle. Remove the nut and pull off the washer and bushing. The lower bolts are easy to access if you crank the wheels around so you have more clearance from the back side of the wheel. Remove the nuts and bolts, push up on the lower tube, swing the shock out and it will easily drop down for removal.

To install the new shock, reverse the procedure. Insert the stem through the hole, compress the bottom, seat the loop in the bracket and insert the bolts. Reinstall the nuts. Now, return to the engine compartment, center up the bushing and stem and tighten down the nut. Now for the other shock.

On the drivers side, you get to work around the brake system. The stem nut is located just in front of the brake booster, under the reservoir and obstructed by the Plumbing. I had a problem getting a socket on the upper stud nut and had to use the combination wrench - so it took a long time. This is where the box-ratchet will save you. With an offset wrench, you can get about 120 degrees of swing - otherwise you get about 60 degrees. Don't forget to crank the wheels back the other way to get easy access to the lower mounts; otherwise, the process is the same as the passengers side.

The NAPA part numbers for the shocks are:

Front - Standard - 94117

Front - "Up Country" - 911524

Rear - Standard - 94134

My Jeep is a 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited (ZJ) with the "Up Country" suspension and the trailer hitch option. I have no skid plates and don't know if they cover anything. Your experience may vary.

Updated 12/30/2011 Rsantina