How do you change the alternator on a 2001 Santa Fe?

Answer 1

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It seems kind confusing your answer. Why remove the AC pump if it is on the front area of the engine and the alternator is on the back?

The problem on removing the alternator on this vehicle is on the bracket that seems to lock the CV Axle in place. This bracket is behind the alternator and seems like it has to be removed so the lower bolt holding the alternator can be removed as well. I have my vehicle up and the alternator hanging by it's lower bolt because it can not be removed as it hits the bracket behind the alternator.

I am just getting a technical manual to figure out the proceeds in to remove the bracket behind the alternator and have room to remove the lower bolt holding the alternator. What a better response??? Avoid buying such a difficult car to work with; even changing spark plugs is a hassle on this vehicle, unless you want to have a +- $900.00 spark plug service on a $3000.00 vehicle.

IN ORDER TO CHANGE THE ALTERNATOR YOU WILL NEED TO; DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, REMOVE THE SKID PAN FROM THE UNDERCARIAGE, UNBOLT THE AIR CONDITIONING PUMP FROM ITS BRACKET(FROM UNDER THE CAR) (CAREFULL ITS PROBABLY CHARGED WITH FREON). LET IT HANG. GO TO THE TOPSIDE, UNDER THE HOOD, AND UNBOLT THE THREE NUTS ON THE ALTERNATOR. RMOVE THE STUDS FROM THE BACK SIDE. REMOVE YOUR FREEON HIGH PRESSURE HOSES FORM THE AIRCONDITIONING PUMP.( BE CAREFUL, BECAUSE IT WILL BLOW FREON EVERYWHERE, NOT GOOD FOR THE OZONE, BUT I HAVE NOT MASTERED THE ART OF CATCHING HIGH PRESSURE VAPORS) GO BACK TO THE UNDERCARRIAGE AND REMOVE THE AIR CONDITIONING PUMP. UNBOLT THE BRACKET THAT IT WAS MOUNTED TO BOLTED TO THE ENGINE NEXT TO THE OIL FILTER. NOW YOU CAN DISCONNECT THE FAST CONNECTOR FROM THE ALTRERNATOR, (EASIEST FROM THE TOP SIDE) THE GO BACK TO THE BOTTOM AND UNBOLT THE POWER CABLE FORM THE ALTERNATOR.(ENSURE YOU HAVE ALREADY DISCCONECTED THE BATTERY) GO TO THE PASSENGERS SIDE REACH OVER THE FENDER AND REMOVE THE SERPENTINE BELT. GET UNDER THE CAR REACH UP AND PULL OUT THE ALTERNATOR. IT MAY REQUIRE A LITTLE LEVERAGE DUE TO HOW TIGHT IT FITS IN THE BRACKET. AFTER REASSYMBLY YOU WILL NEED TO GET YOUR AIR CONDITIOINING RECHARGED WITH FREON. ITS R-34 AND YOU CAN PURCHASE THE PRESSURIZED CANS AT MOST AUTOMOTIVE STORES FOR ABOUT THIRTEEN DOLLARS A BOTTLE. GOOD LUCK

There is a much simpler way to replace your alternator. Jackup and brace front passenger side. Remove front passenger tire and the small plastic inner fender panel (4 bolts 10 mm). The alternator is right there. Remove belt and inspect now is the time to replace it if needed. its easiest two remove the two bolts the hold the tensioner on once you have the belt off the tensioner. Your factory tensioner will require pushing on it from the top, an aftermarket one(about 70 bucks) will have the 3/8 fitting for a socket handle. Removing the tensioner is done to feed the belt through easier onto the upper pulley as there isn't much room to push it through attached. With belt removed there are two bolts to remove. remove the upper bolt the take the nut off the lower bolt its easier to loosen the bracket for the upper bolt as well (for reassemble) once you have the upper bolt out and the lower bolt off the bracket molded into the block is slotted gently pry up and wiggle alternator and itll come off with bolt in place. put bolt in the new alternator. you can now rotate the alternator to remove the battery terminsl and the plug. remove alternator and reverse the procedure. remember to tighten the alternator bracket after you have the alternator in place and the top bolt started. its not 100% necesarry to loosen the bracket but it makes lining up the bolt hole on the alternator easier. Absolutely no reason to do anything with the ac pump or any other component.

Ok Having now done this myself I can say that what is directly above is correct.

Honestly this job is not all that difficult. By the way mine is a 2003 with a 2.7L. I am assuming that this is the same for all models from 2001 thru 2006 I believe?

I recommend several other things than above. Move the tensioner, and slide the belt off of the idler pulley. Don't take off the tensioner... Move the tensioner again and remove the belt from the alternator. Then just push the belt up out of the way of the alternator. Much easier for reassembly.

Now there are two key items that no one seems to elaborate on. The back or rear bracket hole in the alternator is slightly larger then the front bracket hole. In the rear bracket hole is a hard plastic grommet that is slotted. This allows the alternator to slop when the nut has been removed. The other really key piece of info is that the bracket itself is completely slotted front to back. This is how the whole thing comes easily apart. Yes some one really did think about this... As soon as you apply some downward pressure at the other bracket, (That's the one that is single and threaded), the entire alternator will almost pop out of the slotted bracket. Once you have it out you can then pivot around some to get a socket on the nut for the charging wire. Assume you know how to get the interlock plug out.

Reassembly is really much easier if you loosen the two bolts in the bracket that the bolt goes through to screw into to the single threaded hole. Alignment is really difficult almost impossible if you don't.

Also have to get my dig in. Shame on you Haynes Manuals for taking the easy out approach and saying, "Space is limited in this area and other parts must be removed to replace the alternator."