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House wire is "line" Black & White house goes to Black & White of Timer; the "load" (e.g. Pond Pump, etc.) is connected to the Red & White. Specifically, put all 3 whites together (nut or terminal); House (source)(line) Black to Timer Black; and "load" Black to Timer Red. The Red wire is the "Timed" (switched) hot wire.
First you need to decide what you are trying to accomplish. You can wire the Timer switch in series with or parallel to the 3-way switches. If in series then the 3-way switch function would depend on the timer state. If the Timer switch was ON then the 3-way switch could turn the connected device ON or OFF from either location. If the Timer switch were OFF the device would be OFF no matter what you did with 3-way switches. To wire in this fashion put the timer between the supply and the input to the switches. If the Timer is in parallel then if the Timer is ON it doesn't matter what you do with the 3-way switch, the device will be ON as long as the Timer is ON. If the Timer is OFF then the 3-way switches will work in their normal fashion. To wire in parallel connect the supply to one side of the Timer and the device to the other.
You take a wire and stick it to the positive end of the batter. Then connect another wire to the negative end of the battery. Connect both wires to the lightbulb.
you take the blue wire and connect it with the red then connect it to the yellow then you cut the green wire and there you go!
The proper way to connect a second starter wire depends with the configuration used.
I assume you are hard wiring it and not plugging it in. The power coming into the GFCI outlet connects to the line side of the GFCI outlet. If you want the outdoor timer protected by the GFCI then connect the wire going to the timer to the load side of the outlet. If you do not want the timer protected then connect it to the line side. On the back of the GFCI if you look closely you will see Line & Load marked on the back.
connect the wire
House wire is "line" Black & White house goes to Black & White of Timer; the "load" (e.g. Pond Pump, etc.) is connected to the Red & White. Specifically, put all 3 whites together (nut or terminal); House (source)(line) Black to Timer Black; and "load" Black to Timer Red. The Red wire is the "Timed" (switched) hot wire.
First you need to decide what you are trying to accomplish. You can wire the Timer switch in series with or parallel to the 3-way switches. If in series then the 3-way switch function would depend on the timer state. If the Timer switch was ON then the 3-way switch could turn the connected device ON or OFF from either location. If the Timer switch were OFF the device would be OFF no matter what you did with 3-way switches. To wire in this fashion put the timer between the supply and the input to the switches. If the Timer is in parallel then if the Timer is ON it doesn't matter what you do with the 3-way switch, the device will be ON as long as the Timer is ON. If the Timer is OFF then the 3-way switches will work in their normal fashion. To wire in parallel connect the supply to one side of the Timer and the device to the other.
Yes, it is true that the OSI model tells us what kind of wire and connector to use to connect the piece to a network. It is said to have a communication function to decrease errors.
how do you connect the wire from the alternater to the starter?
Always cut the blue wire...uh, assuming that this was a joke...
Wiring a T101 timer is easy. All you have to do is color code the wiring into the input sections.
Connect the sub woofer to the equalizer or amplifier. The positive wire will need to be connected to a power source. Connect the ground wire. Connect the auxiliary wire to the amplifier.
Don't connect the red wire or you will die.
You take a wire and stick it to the positive end of the batter. Then connect another wire to the negative end of the battery. Connect both wires to the lightbulb.
I connect the red wire to the blue wire to deactivate a bomb.