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Connect the line to a source that is above the throttle body on the carb. It should be a source that has no vacuum at idle.
Depends on the vehicle and how it is set up. Some are connected before the throttle plate (ported vacuum or delayed vacuum) and some are connected after the throttle plate (straight manifold vacuum). More info needed.
Need picture of carburetor vacuum connections and what they connect to
The timing may be off a tooth, or maybe a vacuum line was not hooked back up.
To the back up light.
There should be a vacuum source on the carb above the throttle body that gives spark ported vacuum. You can connect a tube from this source to the distributor.
The dampeners and doors should be vacuum controled, would be best to look for line running in firewall from vacuum canister make sure it hooked up , then check line from canister to manifold to make sure has vacuum. I vacuum is going thru line into fire wall then line is broke up to control or control has went bad.
That transmission does not have a modulator valve that makes it shift it is all computor controlled. Therefore it don't have a vacuum line on it anywhere. it does have a small rubber line on it that is a VENT hose.
The headlights require a vacuum to operate down. If there is no vacuum they remain in the up position. You may have a vacuum leak such as a disconnected or broken vacuum line. I have also seen the vacuum reservoir can rotted out and unable to hold a vacuum.
Your distributor needs vacuum to advance your timing during acceleration. That's why you hook up your line to the port that has no vacuum at idle. :O)
It really depends on what you feel is better for you. If you have a bad back and don't like to bend over, then the stand-up vacuum is probably the way to go.
19 to 21 inches of vacuum at an idle, The higher the better. If the engine has a high performance cam then vacuum will be alot lower. When you rev the engine up vacuum should drop and then come right back up.