The best way is to use a "fox and hound' setup. I think this is a brand name used by Triplett, an electrical test instrument company. Other companies make similar products. They usually run from $80 to $120. It might be possible to rent or borrow one. The "fox" is a tone generator that clips onto the wire where it is accessible and sends a signal down the wire. The "hound" is a probe that beeps and flashes when it is within a foot of the wire. You can trace the wire through the wall until you reach a dead end, where the wire is broken.
Wall receptacles are wired in parallel. black to black, white to white, ground to ground.
Yes, you can run electrical wires in a load bearing wall.
A 240 volt wire is the insulation factor of the wire. If you mean a 240 supply source from a distribution panel to a junction box then the answer is yes. You have to keep in mind that the box has to be accessible, meaning that you can get to the box to check the splice within the box. Don't bury the junction box behind the wall board.
Use a voltage tester held next to the wire. Turn the switch off. If the tester stops beeping then the wires are on that switch.
Use a wire table to find the cross-section area of #33 wire, multiply by 7, then find the AWG for that cross-section.
In order to find a short in a buried wire you will need to use an electronic wire chaser. The electronic wire chaser will notify you of where the break is exactly.
Wiring is behind the wall that travels to the ceiling. The electricity caused by the flick of a switch, travels through the hidden wire, to the lightbulb.
Purchase a spring and wire frame-like attachment that holds the plate in three places, nearly invisibly, BEHIND it. With this, it can be hung on a wall like a picture.
The simplest way is to put the wire there first, while the wall is not yet finished. Then you finish the wall. It is good practice to use plastic tubes for the electrical wires inside the wall. Using the tubes and the old wires, you can pull new wires through the tubes. Electricians use special metal wires to help with this.
It was a barrier of barbed wire. When people began to run through the wire, they built it into a wall.
There should be a blue wire behind your original gauges. That's where you hook up your green signal wire
usually under the handle attached to the switch
The Men Behind the Wire was created in 1971-12.
Get a new wire
My 52" Sony actually came with a strap which is meant to be mounted to the wall behind the TV, to prevent it from falling over. This would not only protect from it falling over in an earthquake, but also from a young child pulling it over and potentially seriously hurting themselves. If your TV didn't come with a strap like that, I'd suggest using wire attached to screws secured in one or more of the wall mount mounting holes, and then secure the wire(s) to the wall behind the TV.
Nothing, but break away the plaster in the area you want to run the wire into the wall than to repair replace with drywall.
In the Diamond Mine, there are explosives behind the elevator (to the left), and you can use them to blast the rock and wall. Turn off the sparking wire before you try to move them. Then turn the switch back on to set them off. Blast the rock, then the wall.