First thing to remove are the brake lines, I used a nail to plug them so all of the brake fluid doesn't drain out. The brake lines should be going into the backside of the drum. If you don't have a line wrench just use an open end to unthread them. Next disconnect the emergency brake cables. They will be going into the brake drum, to get them free remove the brake drum and you should see where the cables entered from the back. Undo them and move them out of the way. The next piece to be removed is the drive shaft. I would unbolt it from the rear u-joint and then pull it out and set it aside. Then either use a socket with a breaker bar and WD-40(or similar) or an oxy acetylene torch to remove the u bolts. The axle shouldn't have anything else attached to it and will be free from the truck.
I think he meant, one (or two) axles. Take off the middle thing housing the gears on the rear-end. (mine was 10 bolts) (there is gear oil. probably limited slip around 80 weight?---so have a drain pan underneath). (don't forget to have the gasket for this part you just removed, and also maybe the seals for the axles or the new axle if that is what you need). turn the insides with a wheel or the driveline. look for the /glide floss mini metal pack diameter/ umm...maybe a tad smaller than a quarter-a tad bigger than a nickel diameter peg end, you will see. Look for the end with the small set-screw bolt. (5/32s socket). use a 6 sided socket, you do not want to strip this part where it is, you'll be up a creek. Take out that peg thing. turn the insides till you see the section where you can see these C-clips. Get it so you can get them out. gravity or gently helping will do it. the existing grease and stuff will keep them in place, mostly. pull the axles from the sides in- and/or -out to see the sides of the clips. (might be on the side where you see the rectangular metal block-- on either side of this part). once the C-clip is out, the axle will slide out easy-peasy. reverse to get back together. I suggest not removing anything other than the set-screw, the peg thing, and the C-clips from inside that middle section. I think that is it.
under the hood top driverside corner
You can obtain a 1995 Chevrolet 1500 pickup truck spark plug wiring diagram from most Chevrolet dealerships. Many auto-parts stores will supply the diagram, without charge.
Engine and engine parts: 1988 to 1995 Body parts : 1988 to 1999
under neath the truck
The towing capacity on a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z71 is close to 4,000 pounds. The amount will vary slightly for each vehicle.
according to a repair manual the 1995 5.7 v8 has 200 rpm's
Yes there the same.
20 ft lbs
It should have 2 and they are screewed into the exhaust system/Pipes.
go to sears
Zero TDC. / Top Dead Center
It does not have a cabin filter.
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I have a 1995 Chevy 1500 z71 and i get about 12 mpg City and 14 highway i also have a 2003 engine in it.
between $800 - $1200 depending on who you have do it.
5050 pounds...? i think.
A 3 core will work just fine.
It is possibly the shift interlock solenoid either defective or out of adjustment.
DEXTRON II automatic transmission fluid
The automatics use different shift controls and are not interchangeable.
The 1995 Chevrolet S 10 pickup truck starter relay switch is located on the firewall, in the engine compartment. The starter relay switch will be on the passenger side of the firewall.