How do you get to the spark plugs on a 2002 Chevrolet express van?

Answer 1

For the odd plugs ( driver side) 1 and 3 open the hood. They will be on the right side of the engine and be the first two plugs closest to the front of the vehicle. You will find that it is easier to feel them then to see them. This is fine because there is really no obstructions other than visual. Once you locate the plugs be sure to carefully remove the wires by using gentle back and forth twisting effort and slowly pull them off. Don't tug at the wire- just at the rubber. You can use a pair of larger pliers, even channel-lock pliers for these two plugs. Often using bigger pliers doesless damage than smaller pliers would. There is less of a tendency to fight things because of the increased leverage bigger pliers allow.
If you are replacing the wires then go ahead and even cut the rubber away from the plug end. Once the metal clasp is exposed it's just a matter of gripping it with pliers and giving it a jerk to pop it off the plug end. Be sure you don't let any rubber or metal pieces fall down around the base of the plug. Not only do you risk making it difficult to slide a socket down far enough over the somewhat shallow hexed sides of the plug to remove it, you also risk these pieces falling into the spark plug hole. This would cause all sorts of havoc. Being careful with plug removal and installation is very important. I've been unfortunate enough to cross thread a spark plug several years ago. Luckily it was on an air cooled VW engine. I removed the head, installed a helicoil ( a brand name product that makes it so that you can save a spark plug hole by re-tapping it, inserting their special threaded 'Heli-coil' and then you can install your plug as normal). The coils are pretty cheap, but the tool is expensive. I kept my tool for years and fortunately never had to use it again. That's one lesson only a fool would have to learn twice. LOL being a fool, I guess I'm just lucky. No really, you can avoid cross threading a plug by threading them in very slowly with your fingers. If you must then put the plug in the socket and put a short 3/8" extension on it. Then slowly install the plug still with your fingers turning the extension without a socket wrench. Once fully inserted your socket wrench will only serve to snug the plugs. Remember that if the plugs have washers loosely attached to the plug when purchased that these need to be smashed as the plug gets tightened. Often people under torque their plugs only to find out later that the plug has worked it's way out of the threads. When this happens you'll know it! So rule of thumb is to torque at least a couple of easily accessible plugs with a torque wrench ( Many auto parts stores have tool loaner programs with a fully returnable deposit.) This way you learn the feel of a plug getting seated. That way when you get to the hard to get at plugs you'll be able to secure them with confidence. I still have my moments when I wonder if I've tightened a plug enough. You should never have to apply an excessive amount of energy on your wrench. If you are unsure then simply remove the plug and look at the washer. Is it smashed? Then you obviously did or didn't torque it enough. Take your time.
Before installing any plug be sure to gap them. ( read about gaping elsewhere) Any auto parts clerk can show you how.
The next two plugs are at the rear of the engine on the driver side. Remove the cover on the inside of the van by removing the glove compartment, the long narrow dash cover located just above the drink holders- it just pops out by prying under it with a screwdriver. These plugs are very particular in that if you don't rout the wires away from the exhaust manifold they will melt- especially the #5 plug. So be sure to install the wire in the routing clip/harness that is bolted to the engine.
The passenger side plugs are about the same as the driver's side, but for the front two you'll need to remove the plastic coolant container. It's just one bolt and you can leave the hoses in place, just move the whole container to the side. If you have AC then it's a little more difficult, but not much. The firing order is less confusing if you tape numbers on each end of the wires. The Cap and rotor should be changed when the wires are changed. All of this stuff pays for itself in gas savings and engine lifespan increasing. Always change the air filter every few months. They are cheap and save you more gas than just about any other tuneup part.
Good luck.