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look at the vin number at the bottom corner of the windhield on the driver's side. you might have to search for it but that vin will tell you whether it was an ss or not . Here is the real deal, to be real, it would have to be ALL, real. This would mean a numbers matching motor. The original. So, the serial number on the m otor, would have to match the vin. If it does not, then it could really be a SS, however, without the proper motor, it really isn't, as it has a different motor. Check all of the other tell tale signs. The SS had a totally different dash, with a round tack, speedo, and gauges. Not the sweep type, with the idiot lights. Also, notice which tach it has. The factory red line, tells the tale. 5000rpms, to 5500, would be the lower performance motors. 5800, to 7000, would be higher performance. If the car has a 6500rpm redline, it would not have air conditioning, for example. To rev that high, that motor would have solid lifters. Solid lifters eliminated air, because the standard compressor, only reved 5000rpm's. Depending on which plant the car was built at, the original build sheet would be under the rear seat, or under the bottom seat cushion, on the pass., side front. All the SS's had front disc brakes, bucket seats, and a floor shifter.

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Q: How do you identify if your 1971 Chevelle is a ss or a clone?
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