As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
10/3 with ground NM.
Assuming there is no neutral: 1) Turn off the breaker. 2) Disconnect 1 of the 2 hot wires from the breaker and connect it to the neutral bar (Recommend phase taping the wire white :) ) Remember which wire you used as the neutral, in a home you will most likely have a black and a red. I would keep the black hot, and phase tape the red wire white. If it's not long enough you can wire nut another white wire onto it to make it reach the neutral bar. 3) Leave the breaker OFF, at the receptacle, change it to a 120 volt receptacle. Take the wire you made the neutral, and connect it to the white screw on the 120 v receptacle, and take the black to the hot. Ground to the ground screw. Make sure you phase tape the red wire at the receptacle white as well. 4) turn the breaker on 5) test the receptacle with a meter or receptacle testing device for correct wiring.
Simple. The branch circuit you're feeding with the breaker should have a black, (hot), a white (neutral), and a bare ground wire. The bare ground gets screwed under the ground bar with the other grounds. The black wire goes under the appropriate screw on the breaker. Also the neutral goes to the breaker under the screw with a white dot by it. Then the curled up white wire attached to the breaker gets screwed into the neutral bar where all the other white wires are.
Yes. Ground it to neutral.
Run a fused power line from the receptacle to either the battery for constant Hot or to the fuse box for an ignition controlled receptacle and ground the receptacle either by mounting on a metal surface or run a ground wire from the body of the receptacle to a good chasis ground
An old 2 hole receptacle can be changed to a 3 hole receptacle that will accept a 3 prong plug, provided a ground wire is available at the box and connected to the ground (green) lug on the new receptacle. A 2 hole receptacle has a hot and neutral wire, while a 3 hole receptacle will require a ground wire connection -- in addition to the hot and neutral wires.
Probably because you are either drawing too much current or you have a ground fault. If your ground fault breaker is tripping, or if you have a ground fault receptacle is tripping then you have too much circulating current through your neutral. There are many factors to consider there. Provide more information about what is on the pool's circuit and we can explore the options.
Assuming the wires are the correct gauge for application and breaker you use black and white wires as hot. Put red electrical tape on each end of white wire and connect red and black to the breaker output and bare wire to ground lug in panel. At receptacle connect black and red to hot contacts and bare wire to ground lug.
Not only is it good to put a ground on a receptacle it is mandatory by the electrical code rules. The ground is installed to provide a low impedance return to the distribution panel to trip the breaker supplying the circuit in case of a ground fault occurring on the circuit.
I would think not. However, if live were to come into contact with either the ground, or the neutral or both, this would cause a breaker to trip.
== == If the current in an ac power circuit is not balanced between hot and neutral, possibly meaning some of the current is going through a human being to ground, a GFCI breaker or receptacle will break the circuit to keep the person from being electrocuted.
No, it just has an additional conductor to separate the neutral from the ground, and has a third prong in the receptacle to receive the appliance grounding conductor through the cordset.
Assuming the wiring to the outlet has 2 loads and one neutral, isolate one load from the outlet and use the neutral as the common. be sure to ground from the receptacle to your conduit or ground lead. You should also replace the corresponding breaker with a 120 volt single breaker.
If you are connecting 120 volts, you connect the black wire to the breaker, white wire to the neutral bar, and ground wire to the ground bar. If you are connecting 240 volts connect the black & white wires to the breaker, & ground wire to the ground bar.
Ground wire connects to the ground bar, white wire connects to the neutral bar, and black wire connects to the breaker. Be sure and turn off main breaker before installing the wire or the breaker.
If the receptacle is a 3 wire receptacle then purchase a 3 wire pigtail and connect it to the dryer. When you connect it connect the neutral and ground together. <<>> The cord to the dryer should stay a four wire as that is now the new electrical code. What should be done is changing the three wire wall receptacle to a four wire installation. Turn the breaker off that controls the circuit for the dryer. Look in the back of the dryer receptacle box that is in the wall. The three wires coming in should have a bare ground wire in the cable set. It wasn't brought to the receptacle because there was no place for it on the old three wire receptacle. If you find the ground wire back there under a screw terminal, just add another short piece of wire under the screw and then connect the other end of the short wire to the new ground terminal on the new four position receptacle. The wire should be equal in size to the size of the wire that exists around the ground terminal now. If the house is so old that the range cable did not have a ground wire in it, the electrical code allows a separate green ground #10 wire to be taken from the breaker panel box to the existing range receptacle. This wire is to be bonded on each end. At the panel end to the ground buss and at the receptacle end around the ground screw at the back of the box unbroken and then to the new four position receptacle ground lug.
The NEC allows you to replace a 2 wire receptacle with another 2 wire receptacle. Replacing it with a 3 wire receptacle requires you to rewire the circuit with 3 conductors or install an additional ground wire run with the existing 2 wires. It is bad practice to connect the neutral to both the neutral terminal and the ground terminal. It creates a potential hazard you want to avoid. Some would install the 3 wire recept without any connection to the ground terminal. This is best if you have no other option but it is then easy to forget, or for someone else not to know, that there is no grounding connection to whatever you plug in. This is a code violation.
Looking at a duplex receptacle the right smaller slot is hot, the left larger slot is neutral and the u ground is ground.
First off, this is for a single phase 120/240V system only. The ground and neutral can be bonded at the receptacle but not instead of bonding them at the panel.You should always have them bonded together at the panel in a single phase 120/240V system. Otherwise you risk having a floating neutral in your system.
It may be the GFCI breaker is defective. Make sure it is wired correctly. Neutral to neutral bar and ground to ground bar.
A ground fault circuit breaker detects leakage current between the hot wire coming off the breaker and the neutral/ground since the neutral is bonded to the ground in the panel, if it senses a current of 6 milliamps or more it will trip. Note: no sharing of the neutral for a circuit on a ground fault breaker If a few milliamps from the hot (black) wire do not return on the neutral (white) wire, then a GFCI assumes that current it traveling harmfully elsewhere through your body. So it disconnects. A GFCI can monitor 15,000 milliamps. But if only 5 go missing, then a GFCI trips.
A ground fault breaker is installed in the distribution panel and every device that is connected to the breaker in that circuit is protected. A GFCI receptacle is installed in a outlet receptacle box. They can be wired two ways. Direct wired will protect just the outlet of the box that it is mounted in or (in - out) wired where the GFCI receptacle protects all of the down stream ordinary receptacles in the circuit.They're the same thing."GFCI" is an acronym for "Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter". It "interrupts, or "breaks" the circuit if there is a ground fault.A ground fault is defined as any condition in which current goes somewhere other than the return wire. The GFCI constantly compares the current through the "hot" wire to the current returning through the neutral wire, and if there is any significant difference in the two, the GFCI interrupts the current, potentially saving lives.
The neutral is in contact with the ground at some point of the circuit.
The Neutral is bonded to the ground at the FIRST main breaker, which is usually just as it comes from the meter. In normal residential applications, power comes from the meter, then to a panel. In that panel, the ground and neutral are bonded. If that panel feeds another panel, the second panel has to have its ground and neutral separated. Mobile homes have to have a main breaker outside the house, so the neutral is grounded there, and inside the mobile home, they are separated.
A home circuit for a clothes dryer is 30 amps. This means that the breaker feeding the circuit must be rated at 30 amps. A # 10 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 30 amps.So to answer the first part of your question about the breaker the answer is no, the breaker must be changed to a 30 amp breaker.The receptacle configuration of the 50 amp receptacle will not fit the four pin cord that comes complete with a new dryer. So the 50 amp receptacle can not be used.If the 50 amp circuit is in a older home then the feeder cable might not have enough conductors in it. New dryer cable requires three current carrying conductors with a ground conductor also in the cable set. If the existing cable has three current carrying conductors and a ground then it can be used. The cable could be a # 6 depending on what was plugged into the old 50 amp receptacle.Older set ups grounded the neutral conductor of the cable set to the frame of the dryer there by using the neutral return conductor as a ground conductor.The electrical code has changed and this is not allowed any more and states that the ground wire has to be a separate conductor and it connects the frame of the dryer directly to the ground bus on the electrical distribution panelboard. Hence the new four pin plug that comes with every new dryer and the need of a new four pin wall receptacle.