You need a special puller. You can lease it in AutoZone.
Not sure if the 98 is the same as the 99 but the fuse box is to the lower left of the steering wheel behind the ashtray. Pull out the ashtray and fuses should be there.
Just installed a crankshaft sensor on a lumina APV. 1. remove 3 bolts from cover under the flywheel so you can use a visegrip plyer to hold the flywheel from turning 2. remove the serpentine belt 3. Jack up car to remove front right wheel, and plastic cover to gain access to the crankshaft pully 4. Remove bolt from crankshaft pully ( you will need an extra stong breaker bar to loosen the screw. 5. Use a large pully remover to get the pully off 6. the cover over the sensor will pull off, try no to break it. 7. remove a screw that goes up vertically to lock the sensor in 8. wiggle and pull the sensor out. Reassembly proved to be very easy
A pully is something that has a pully circle and you can just pull on it to make the object move but if the object is heaver then you you need to put a movable pully so it is easier
pull the headlight fuse
get a 1/2 drive rachet and a socket that fits the tentioner pully hand pull the pully to slack the belt pull the belt off and let the pully back in placethen you can loosen the nut ans tap the pully off if needed
no. the size of a pully makes little difference to its action on a rope as the only thing changing is how much of the rope is in contact with the pully and since the pully rotates it makes it no easier or harder to pull the rope.
there is a little dash mark on the camshaft and then on the crank shaft there is a key that holds the balancer pully on strait and you turn the engine over with your hands on the balancer pully until it points strait up and then pull it off and then turn the camshaft (dont be scared it will pop into place) until the dash lines up with the key on the crankshaft then put everything back together and start.
I've come across situations like that and about the only thing I could think of was to pull spark plug #1, put a small rod or long screwdriver down the cylinder and turn the crankshaft pully SLOWLY AND BY HAND while I watched the rod move up or down. Once the rod got to the top and started to move back down I turned the pully backward and then carefully positioned the pully to the point where the rod was at it's highest point. I then did something to the mark on the pully so that I would know which was the indicator for #1, either a chalk mark or a little extra filing on the pully.
This is a lengthy procedure. Changing the belt itself is not the hard part, but ensuring you don't mess up your timing is. Incorrect timing on your timing belt can RUIN your engine by bending valves, indenting pistons and other nasty things. Another note, NEVER turn the crankshaft or camshaft pullies opposite of their operational direction as it will mess up your timing (this becomes difficult when loosening the crankshaft pully as you have to turn the bolt left without letting the pully slip and rotate counter-clockwise). Okay, with warnings out of the way: 1. Rotate your crankshaft pully until the notch on it lines up with the TDC mark on the plastic timing belt cover 2. Break the bolt on you crankshaft pully loos without allowing the pully to rotate (crankshaft pully is the far bottom pully) 3. Loosen the bolts on the water pump pully (middle pulley that has two belts on it) 4. Remove your drive and accesory belts (two exposed belts on the front of the engine) 5. remove the water pump pully 6. remove the crankshaft pully 7. remove the bolts from the plastic timing belt cover (big black plastic cover on front of engine) and remove the cover ** now the belt you are looking at is your timing belt ** all three gears that it goes around have positioning marks on them so that you can make sure that you keep them in the same place when putting the new belt on. It only takes ONE gear tooth off to seriously degrade engine performance. Note the position of each pully (the distributor pully turns easily and can secretly slip out of time without you noticing) 8. loosen (not remove) the attaching bolt on the timing belt tensioner (little cylinder about in the middle of the timing belt path, no gear teath on it), pry the tensioner out and retighten the bolt (this will give you the necessary slack to remove the belt) 9. Now simply pull the belt off (remember that however hard you have to pull to get this belt off, you will have to push harder to get the new one on. If you have to pull too hard, repeat step 8 and pry the tensioner out further) 10. installation is the reverse of removal NOTE The warning about ruining your engine is absolutely correct on what is known as an interference engine. This is why you should always change your timing belt at an acceptable mileage. Break a belt while driving a Honda and you've just bent some valves. The Ford 2.3L is a non-interference engine and damage will most likely not occur. All the timing belt books will say "most likely" but I've replaced several belts on these engines after they've broken and never had a problem.
yes but be careful to get the right pully puller
i don't think you can you will need to bye a new pull start or pull the cover of and find a piece of line that will go around the pully so you can start it
Yes it will