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Before you begin note that gasoline is flammable and as you will be working with fuel lines and other things be careful not to have any sparks or open flames nearby. Also, wash the vehicle thoroughly and clean engine with white spirit or similar. Now, here is how it goes:
First, remove the seat.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal cable, then the negative one.
Front radaitor cover must be removed. This is held in place by two allen screws located under the handle bars. Slide cover backwards.
Remove the gas tank, fuel pump main electrical connector, and the fuel line. Be careful not to spill a lot of fuel so have something to put the fuel in.
Front fenders are next removed. These are held in place by two allen bolts with 10 mm nuts and three usual head bolts of the same size. Two more bolts attach the front and rear fenders close to the battery tray.
Remove vent tube and unplug the electrical connector box for the wire harness to the front part of the vehicle. This will make it possible to remove the complete front section.
The next step involves removing the heat shield for the gas tank. This involves disconnecting a vent tube and a wiring harness connector.
Loosen and remove the Timing Mark screw with an allen tool.
Remove Crankshaft end cover so you can crank the engine.
Spark plugs are next removed with the spark plug wrench that is in the vehicle's tool kit.
Remove three covers all held by 8 mm bolts. This is the top cover near the FI, the rear cover close to the exhaust pipes and the cover of the crankcase where the timing chain is.
Get the engine to TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke. Use a 22 mm socket and turn the engine counter-clockwise. The timing mark on the flywheel should be aligned with the mark on the crankcase. use the "I" mark to identify the TDC The "H" mark is used for adjusting timing. Notice the line on the camshaft gear and the case will also match. Rocker arms should be relatively loose once you are at TDC. If there is zero valve clearacne then you are not on the correct stroke and must turn one more turn to get to the TDC.
Use feeler gauges set in mm to measure the valve gap. Intake valves should be set at .09 to .13mm. There should be slight resistance while sliding the feeler gauge through. If it is too tight you have to loosen the nut and turn the tappet adjuster counter-clockwise. When you get the correct valve gap tighten the nut and recheck. Do the same to the other valve without turning the engine over. Adjust as specified above.
Rotate engine a few turns counter clockwise and recheck measurements and adjustment.
Follow a similar procedure for the exhaust valves but note that they are set at .16 to .20mm. When the correect gap has been established, turn the engine over a few more times, re-located the TDC and recheck measurments for all valves.
Reinstall all parts in reverse order to what is described above. An oil and filter change is a good idea after this procedure as extra dirt and particles may have entered the crankcase during the adjustment. Let engine idle at low RPM's for a few minutes before revving it up.
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When you put your 660 Yamaha raptor in gear while idling it wants to lurch forward and chatter noice from somewhere any ideas?
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