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get a special tool from a auto place

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โˆ™ 2015-07-15 19:58:34
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Q: How do you remoe the window handle on a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne?
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How do you change a power window motor on a Pontiac Grand Am?

I just completed this job on a 1992 Pontiac Grand Am SE, 2 door. It's not fun. First you'll have to remoe the door panel and all the little pieces: Remove the little plastic slide piece that locks the door (I'm assuming if you have power windows you have power doors too) Then remove the plastic cover under the door hande. (Pry up with a flathead screwdriver) This will reveal a bolt/screw that needs to be removed. Then pry up the plastic cover that the power door lock switch is on. Disconnect the wire and set the plastic cover aside. Then remove all the screws along the bottom of the door trim. Remove two srews in a triangular plastic cover, up by the top of the door, by the window and then remove the plastic cover. Pull out the door panel along the front and back, (it's only connected now by plastic clips/pins.) Pull up on the door panel and it should become loose. You'll have to losen the seat belt to pull the panel away from the door. 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You will have to drill them out and then chop off the rivit heads with a chisel or screwdriver to remove the rivits. The whole assembly can now be removed through the large opening in the door. The window motor is attached to the lifting arm with 3 rivits, they will also have to be drilled out. ***Danger*** the lifting arm is attached to the motor with a large tightly wound spring. This must be secured or locked in place with a hole drilled in the unit and a bolt inserted or it will spring apart and may cause injury!! Also it will be impossible to re-attach the spring correctly if it does come off. Remove the motor and replace it with the new one. The new motor comes with it's own screws so use them to re-attach the new motor to the lifting arm, instead of rivits. Re-install the unit in the reverse order. The motor will have to be mounted to the door frame with 4 new rivits. There is no space to use bolts or screws. . I learned it the hard way. Ouch. This is my tale for a 97 SE. I started by taping the window to the window frame using packing tape. I have tinted windows so I put the tape on the outside of the window and over the doorframe. Put something between the tape and the rubber trim, the tape will leave residue on that. Then loosen the two bolts that hold the window to the regulator. Disconnect the wire harness at the top of the motor. Then drill out the four big rivets, starting with a 1/8 inch then 1/4 inch bits. I used Craftsman Zirconium Nitride Coated Drill Bits. Go slow and shoot a little WD-40 to help, it takes a while to get them out. When the last rivet falls out, the regulator will collapse so mind your fingers. Try not to make the actual hole in the metal any bigger that it already is. Then remove the two bolts that go to the bottom of the regulator. The whole assembly will now slide out one of the big holes in the sheet metal, and no, you don't need to cut any metal. You can buy the motor with a new regulator already assembled, or just the motor. I got just the motor on eBay for $40. There are cheaper ones but I wanted a good one. If you just get the motor, you'll have a little more work. Drill out the four rivets holding it on to the regulator. You can either rivet the new one on or just use four small machine screws, that's what I did. It won't hurt to put a little grease in the tracks now either. Slide the whole assembly back in and attach the two bottom bolts then the two that hold the window to the regulator. Attach the wire harness and power the motor back and forth until one of the holes that you removed the rivets from is in alignment with the holes in the new motor. When you get one bolt in, power the motor a little in either direction to get the other holes in alignment. Now the tough part, getting the fat little bolts in those holes and getting a nut on it. I think I used 1/4 X 3/4 inch bolts. I got them at Home Depot but there's a better selection at auto parts stores. If you want to spend the money, you can get the big rivets and a big rivet gun, but I didn't think it was worth it. I've had the one window in for over a year with just the 3 bolts and it's holding fine. You can only access 3 holes in the motor if you're using bolts to attach it. If while drilling out the rivets you made the holes bigger, you may need to use a washer. Get one in, then power the motor a little at a time until the other holes are lined up and get at least three bolts in. Get them as tight as you can using locking nuts. Try putting the bolt in from either direction to see which way works best. The first time I did this, it took me over 4 hours. The second window, 90 minutes. Now you can go through the drive thru again.


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Check out this site: www.twinturbo.net There you will find all the info you need and then some. From that site, there is a link to twinturboz's of Dallas. You will find a complete removal and installation guide with photos. ------------ Answer 2: Also DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO DRILL YOUR INTAKE. It's pointless and takes even more time to even get to your injectors. Your best bet is to Take the intake off by which it only took me about 30 minutes, Remoe the coil pack plugs and injector plugs, TPS sensor plug and vac hoses on that black air crossover, IACV plug and whatever the other plug is next to it. Then remove the temp plug and temp plug next to it as well. Man thing is to allow the harness to be free from the intake There's a crossover hose for the water and just cut that if it's as hard as a rock. take the plastic intake vac hoses off, take the center bolts off the intake, there are two bolts per side on the intake in the middle, remove those. on the driver side back side of the intake there's a large 5/8th's hose that will stump you every time near the IACV, remove that however you can and repeat on the passenger side THE INJECCTOR PLUG MIGHT HAVE METAL CLIPS SO REMOVE THOSE FIRST BEFORE LIFTING THE PLUG OUT. There are two 10mm bolts on the bottom where the two metal rods connect the intake towards the front bottom side of the intake(Dont know that piece yet) remove those. the intake should come off. NOW there's two bolts per injector holding the injector down. I know from experience that they will be locked into place but can easliy be removed.... Get some vice grips and lock it down on the Philips head of the screw(Just enough to lock it down firmly, not he-man tight. and give it a little twist(No this will not ruin your bolt nor prevent you from install it back, this is the way I did it to prevent me from stripping the head it self.) Repeat that for the other side of that injector and that's it, you should be able to pull it up.(Repeat this step for the other 5) From there you should be able to see the other bolts that keep the fuel rail in place so you handle that. The injectors are hard as hell to remove so be ready to use some muscle a little bit. I just pryed in different sections to remove them because it didn't matter if the the plastic was broke or not because they were all bad pretty much. after remove the old beat down injectors, have a bit of wd40 or silky gas solution because you will be using that to lube up the holes to place the new injectors in. BE SURE TO CLEAN THE HOLES FIRST. Now grab a q-tip or your finger whatever and dip it into the wd40(I prefer) and just run your fingers around the lower and upper hole of that injector port and gentle place the injector in. Then go ahead and push down simoltanuously on each side of the injector to evenly place it down. Now go ahead and place that cap and the two bolts on it which will finish it down. Tighten it down little by little on each side. Repeat that last step for the rest of them and them re-install and you have yourself a running car. Be sure all of your hoses are placed back. TIP: i went ahead and remove that pointless black piping for the fuel and ran an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to the inlet and a hose back to the return line. That black piece is just used for fuel dampening and regulating which I find that is ok but pointless. Besides the fuel was dampened and then it was regulated... CRAZY!!!! So in place where the inlet side goes, just install a jdm adjustable regulator and the outlet just straight hose it back to the return hose and leave it at that. From that air crossover piping on the intake, just cap the vac ports off. I'm running 93 in mine as that's what the car calls for so don't go believing cheap gas it what is needs. The timing is so far advanced and your coils are good. If you have to use cheap gas, back off your CAS a bit ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- When inserting the injectors into place, DO NOT use WD40. Please use either grease or vaseline. Just dabb it on all over the rubber seals. Using WD40 could work, but unfortunately you will still run the risk of pinching the lower seal when installing the injectors. This will cause that cylinder to flood up when the engine gets turned on. You would then have to pull everything back out and replace the lower seal on the injector. Good answer though. dream300zx@gmail.com


What tools are needed to replace the Fuel Filter on a 1991 Honda Accord EX?

To replace your oil you will need these tools. 1)Oil filter 2)10W30 Motor Oil or Synthetic equivalent. 3)Drain Bolt Washer 4)17mm Wrench 5)Large Channel Lock Wrench or Oil filter Wrench 6)Torque Wrench 7)Oil Pan 8)Two Jack Stands 9)Floor Jack 10)Cardboard to lay on 11)Safety Glasses 12)Rag 13)tire Chalks 14)Funnel This is pretty much it. Drive the car for about 10 minutes, or picking up all your items. Once you get home let car sit for about 10 minutes. Place chalks behind both rear wheels, and lift car. Place jack stands under car, and give the car a push to make sure it won't fall. Make sure the car is on a FLAT LEVEL SURFACE!!! Go under the car, place the oil pan a little bit behind the drain bolt. Reason being that oil is just going to shot out of there. Loosen the bolt with the wrench, then quickly remove by hand, your going to get oil on your hands, just watch out that your face is not in the way. My first time i came out from under the car looking pretty dumb and my girl friend could not help but laugh at me. It'll keep draining for quite a while, then it will start to drizzle, then finally dripping. once it starts to drip, remove the washer from the bolt and replace with new washer. Now you can go 2 or 3 changes before changing, but I just change it every time. Reinsert the drain bolt back into the oil pan and hand tighten. then use the Torque wrench and set it for 30 pounds, tighten until you feel the wrench click over. If no torque wrench is available then you can hand tighten it and just tighten it until you feel the washer crush a little bit (basically has to be snug.) From there reach up behind the engine and remove the oil filter, same thing keep your face turned away!!! or face full of oil haha. Now before you remove the filter you can place a rag over the exhuast pipe to prevent oil from getting on it. Reason being is that oil will get on it and if its not wipe off then when you run the car you will have a oil burning smell for a while. once it drains out from the filter toss filter onto oil drain pan and check the hole to make sure the o-ring came off with the filter. If not, then remoe the o-ring, and once it's cleared away, wipe it down and make sure the area is clean. Then take your new oil filter and twist on. I used the channel lock wrench to loseen and tighten filter. just snug, doesn't not need to be tight. wipe down any area where oil fell onto and you are good to go. Crawl out from under the car and lower your car back to the ground. From the open up the hood and at the top of the engine you will see a black cap, undo the cap, place funal in the oil and let the juices flow. For the EX it will take exatly 4.5 quarts. Once your oil is in the engine, place cap back on engine and tighten. run car for 30 seconds, turn off check dip stick. If all is well you are good to go. Basically if there is oil on the second dot you are fine. I spent about 90 bucks, but I bought 5 quarts of Mobile 1 High Milage Synthetic Oil, which came out to 75bucks. and the oil filter. most shops offer 20 changes and throw in 4 quarts. but I trust what i did with my own hands.