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How do you Release the tension to change the serpentine belt on a 1993 grand prix 31 V 6?
Usually it takes a 3/8 or a 1/2 inch rachet on the spring loaded tensioner. simply put the rachet in the square hole and loosen the tension to get the belt off.
Changing 1988 Honda Accord Timing Belt?
I replaced the timing belt on my 1992 Honda Accord a few months ago. If you don't have 4-8 hours, a 3/4 inch breaker bar, a cheater bar, and a tool to hold the huge pulley in place don't try it. You will also need two jacks. One of them will be for the motor and the other will be for the wheel well. Your 1988 will be just as difficult, if not more difficult to accomplish. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the left (driver's side) wheel and inner fender panel. Remove the splash shield. Remove the accessory belts and the top engine mount. Remove the valve cover. Step 2 Turn the engine counter clockwise until the engine is on top dead center on number 1 cylinder. To do this look on the top of the transmission for the rectangular hole in the bell housing and the pointer pointing toward the block. Turn the engine until you see a T and a line next to it. If the car is an automatic turn the engine and watch the flywheel for these marks. Put the pointer on the line and you have top dead center. If the car is a manual transmission put the pointer on the T. Step 3 Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pulley. Remove the timing belt covers. Check the timing marks one more time and make sure the camshaft sprocket has the word UP in the up position. Loosen the timing belt tensioner and push it away from the belt and loosely tighten it to hold it out of the way. Remove the timing belt. Step 4 Install the new timing belt starting on the left side from the crank over the camshaft sprocket and down on the inside of the tensioner and over the outside of the oil pump. Loosen the tensioner and let it apply tension to the belt and then tighten the bolt. Step 5 Make sure all the tension is on the side opposite of the tensioner or the left side. Double check the timing marks to make sure they are still lined up. Turn the engine counter clockwise for about three to four teeth on the camshaft sprocket and then loosen the bolt in the tensioner and let it take up the remainder of the slack in the belt. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 31 foot pounds of torque. Step 6 Install all components in reverse order of their removal. Tighten the crankshaft bolt to 108 foot pounds of torque.
What are the release dates for Midway USA's Gun Stories - 2011 The Beretta 92 1-10?
Midway USA's Gun Stories - 2011 The Beretta 92 1-10 was released on: USA: 31 August 2011
What level do you become a black belt in ninja warz?
Level 31 is your first black belt
How do you change the air con belt on a Nissan 300zx?
AnswerOn a Z-31 you first remove the power steering belt. It's easiest to do this with an open end wrench as the adjustment stop bolt is a little hard to get to. First loosen the stop bolt located to the lower right of the power steering pump then you can use a deep well socket to loosen up the tension on the belt and remove it. Then loosen the bolt in the center of the idler pulley with the AC belt on it. Above this pulley is a bolt that you loosen to relieve the tension. Remove the tension and the ac belt will come off the pulleys. Simply pull the belt around the fan blade and reverse to reinstall and set tension an belts and that's it.... Chuck
What size belt does a Murray riding lawnmore take 11hp36cut?
31''
What star is mentioned in the book of job?
31 "Can you bind the chains[b] of the Pleiades? Can you loosen Orion's belt? Job 38:31 NIV
When did baseball player Brandon Belt play?
Brandon Belt debuted on March 31, 2011 and played his final game on September 29, 2013.
What level do you have to be to become a black belt in ninja wars on facebook?
level 31, i think
How do you replace the timing belt on a1995 Honda accord ex?
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.2. Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed. Remove the splash shield from below the engine.3. Drain the engine coolant. Use a clean container; cap or cover the container and wipe up spillage.4. Unplug the electrical connector at the cruise control actuator, then remove the actuator. Don't disconnect the cable; simply move the actuator out of the work area.5. Remove the belt from the power steering pump. Remove the mounting bolts for the pump. Without disconnecting the hoses, move the pump out of the way.6. Unplug the alternator wiring and connectors; remove the engine wiring harness from the valve cover.7. Loosen the adjusting and mounting bolts for the alternator and/or compressor. Remove the drive belt(s).8. Remove the valve cover.9. Remove the side engine mount support bracket, if equipped.10. Remove the upper timing belt cover.11. Support the engine with a floor jack on the oil pan (use a cushion between the jack and pan). Tension the jack so that it is just supporting the engine but not lifting it.12. Remove the side engine mount.13. Remove the dipstick and dipstick tube.14. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.Note: This bolt is one of the tightest on the entire car. The pulley must be held in place while the bolt is loosened. One trick is to wrap an old drive belt around the pulley to hold it steady-don't try this with a belt that is to go back on the car; it will be stretched or damaged.16. If necessary for additional clearance to remove the lower timing belt cover, remove the two rear bolts from the center beam. Slowly lower the jack and the engine until the clearance is gained.17. Remove the rubber seal from around the belt tension adjusting nut (do not loosen the nut). Remove the lower timing belt cover.18. Lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place using one of the lower cover (6 x 1mm) mounting bolts.Note: There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.19. Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.20. Loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt.To install:21. Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.22. Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.23. Perform the following steps:§ Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.§ Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.24. Tighten the lockbolt installed earlier to lock the timing belt adjuster arm. Remove the crank pulley.Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is 1/4 fl. oz. (8 ml).25. Clamp the mounting flange of the tensioner in a vise using a cloth or blocks of wood to protect it. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the maintenance hole. Place the stopper (tool number 14540-P13-003) or an equivalent clamp on the tensioner, then turn the screwdriver clockwise to compress the bottom. Be careful not to damage the threads or the gasket contact surface.26. Install the maintenance bolt on the tensioner with a new gasket. Tighten to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).27. Make sure no oil is leaking from around the maintenance bolt, then install the tensioner on the engine. Make sure the stopper stays in place and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).28. Remove the stopper.29. Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).30. Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.31. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.28. Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.29. Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures.Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.30. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).31. Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).32. If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992-9533. Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following:§ 1994-95 Accord and Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)34. Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.35. Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.36. Install the upper belt cover.37. Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.38. Install the valve cover.39. Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.40. Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.41. Install the power steering pump and install the belt.42. Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.43. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.44. Refill the engine coolant.45. Install the splash shield under the engine.46. Connect the negative battery cable.47. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.
How do you change a timing belt on a 1999 Toyota Tacoma with a V6 engine?
FRANKLY, TIS OPERATION SHOULD BE LEFT TO FACTORY TRAINED TOUOTA TECHNICIANS. Chuck25 year retired Toyota Service Manager To keep from messing something up, get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM Timing belt replacement DISASSEMBLY 1) REMOVE ENGINE UNDERCOVERAlso known as the factory skid plate. 2) DRAIN ENGINE COOLANTFrom the radiator drain valve. Of course, make sure the radiator is cool to the touch before draining! Also remove the radiator cap. 3) DISCONNECT UPPER RADIATOR HOSEActually, completely remove the upper hose. If you plan on replacing the water pump, you might as well remove the lower hose from the thermostat housing also. 4) DISCONNECT POWER STEERING PUMP FROM ENGINEAt this point the FSM instructs you to disconnect two power steering (PS) hoses from the air intake chamber, and to remove the bolt holding the PS pressure tube clamp to the frame. We didn't perform either of these two steps. Next, remove the PS drive belt by first loosening the adjuster clamp nut, then backing off the adjuster itself. Once it's loose, go ahead and unbolt the adjuster bracket from the water pump housing, and move the pump away from the engine. 5) DISCONNECT A/C COMPRESSOR FROM ENGINEFrom underneath the vehicle, loosen the adjuster clamp nut, then the adjuster, until the drive belt is slack. In this step the FSM has you remove the A/C compressor. The reason for the removal is to gain access to the timing belt tensioner. By using the special Snap-On tool, we'll avoid having to unbolt the compressor from the engine. 6) LOOSEN FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND FAN PULLEYSIf the fan pulley wants to rotate while you try to loosen the nuts, the shank of a screwdriver may be wedged between two studs to hold the pulley. 7) REMOVE DRIVE BELT FOR ALTERNATORFrom underneath the vehicle, loosen the adjuster clamp nut, then the adjuster, until the drive belt is slack. (On supercharged V6s, first remove the oil dipstick and dipstick tube by unbolting it from the engine. Then use a 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar to release the automatic tensioner and remove the belt from one of the pulleys. If replacing the water pump, the whole tensioner assembly can be removed now.) 8) REMOVE NO. 2 FAN SHROUDThe fan shroud is two pieces. The bottom section is held on with two clips. Instead of separating the two pieces, remove the fan first, then just remove four bolts and take out the whole shroud. 9)REMOVE DIPSTICK AND GUIDERemove the bolt, oil dipstick, dipstick tube, and the o-ring. Block the hole from the dipstick tube so coolant doesn't get into the crankcase if you are replacing the water pump. 10)REMOVE NO. 2 TIMING BELT COVERDisconnect four spark plug wire clamps from the top of the cover. Remove six bolts around the cover. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector by pinching the locking tab. Then twist the connector to release it from the cover. After the timing belt cover is removed, inspect below and behind the camshaft timing pulleys for any leakage from the seals. You want to discover this before going any further, since their replacement is beyond the scope of a diy. Remember to also inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys for any leakage or worn bearings as components are removed in the steps that follow. 11)REMOVE THE FAN BRACKETIt really is just a bracket, the water pump is behind it. 12)REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEYThe FSM calls for a special service tool to hold the pulley while you loosen the bolt, but you may be able to make the tool yourself. We used 1/2" thick steel plate cut 5" square, then welded to a long bar for leverage. The pulley bolt takes a 19mm socket, so we cut a hole in the center of the plate to clear the socket, and drilled two 3/8" holes to fit the shank of two 3/8" drill bits. The pulley has two 3/8" holes in it, so if you space the two 3/8" drill bits 3.27" apart (measured to the outside of the drill bits), they will fit perfectly into the pulley holes. 13)REMOVE STARTER WIRE BRACKET AND THE NO. 1 TIMING BELT COVERRemove two bolts for the starter wire bracket, and four bolts for the cover. 14)REMOVE TIMING BELT GUIDEThis looks like a large washer and it's on the crankshaft right in front of the timing belt. While removing this, note which side goes against the belt (the rounded or convex side). 15)SET NO. 1 CYLINDER AT TDC/COMPRESSIONTemporarily install the crankshaft pulley bolt so the crankshaft may be rotated. Turn the crankshaft (always clockwise) until it aligns with the mark behind it, and the two camshaft pulleys align with the marks behind them (on top). If the camshaft pulleys are not aligned, turn the crankshaft one more revolution. Remove the pulley bolt when finished. 16)IF REUSING TIMING BELT, CHECK INSTALLATION MARKS ON TIMING BELTIf you're using this article to get to the water pump, and will re-install the belt, make sure the marks (one at the crank, one on each camshaft pulley, and a mark to indicate the front of the belt) are present. If the marks are gone, be sure to apply new ones before removing the belt. 17)REMOVE TIMING BELT TENSIONERAlternately loosen two bolts, remove them, the tensioner, and a dust boot. This step was omitted. We were replacing the belt, so the old one was just cut off. If you are reusing the belt, remove the top center pulley first to make the belt slack.This entire step can be omitted if you're using the Snap On Tensioner Compressor. The aftermarket tensioner compressor only works if the old belt is removed. Place the tool between the tensioner pulley and the water pump pulley. Turn the hex portion to spread the tool, which compresses the tensioner. Continue compressing it until the pin supplied with the tool goes through the hole in the tensioner. This pins the tensioner in the retracted position while the timing belt is installed (during assembly). 18)REMOVE THE TIMING BELTIf the belt is still too tight, remove the top center (No. 2) idler pulley. We cut off the belt, so this step was already completed. NOW YOU'RE READY TO REPLACE THE WATER PUMPMake sure that hole from removing the dipstick tube is covered, we don't want any coolant in there. Remove the thermostat housing, and then the water pump. The pump uses Form In Place Gasket (FIPG) material that may make it difficult to remove, be sure that any prying you do will not damage the gasket surface. Thoroughly clean the engine and thermostat housing surfaces with a razor blade/gasket scraper, then wipe these surfaces, and the new water pump, with an oil free solvent. Apply new Toyota FIPG (or equivalent) material and assemble within 5 minutes. The bead should be 2-3mm (.08-.12") wide, more material is NOT better! Torque the water pump bolts and the thermostat housing nuts to 14 ft. lbs. Take your time cleaning the gasket surfaces and adding new sealant. If it leaks, you will not only have to re-do all this hard work, Toyota also recommends that the timing belt be replaced if any coolant gets on it! INSPECTION 1 )INSPECT TIMING BELTDo not bend, twist, or turn the belt inside out. Do not let it come into contact with any oils or solvents. Visually inspect the belt for any separation, cracked teeth, or other damage/wear. If damage or unusual wear is found, check the belt guide, and the pulleys and gear teeth for nicks or misalignment. Even if replacing the belt, an inspection can also help to identify marginal components. 2 )INSPECT IDLER PULLEYSFor any oil leakage at the seal, and that they rotate freely without any roughness in the bearing. ASSEMBLY 1 )INSTALL TIMING BELTMake sure all the pulleys are free of oil or water that might contaminate the belt. Note the marks on the belt, one for each cam, and one showing forward (an arrow). Pull the belt tight to simulate the tensioner (after it's released), and check the alignment marks on the two camshaft pulleys and at the top of the crankshaft gear. On this truck, the marks were just a tad bit off of the marks, but it was equal at all three marks (which is somewhat visible in the pictures). 2 )SET TIMING BELT TENSIONERThe tensioner was not removed, because the SnapOn tool was used. If you didn't have the special tool, the tensioner would be off the vehicle and this is where you would compress it in a vise and pin it with a small hex key or Allen wrench. 3 )INSTALL TIMING BELT TENSIONERIf you removed it. Now, once the belt is in place and ready for tension, put the pin out of the tensioner, and double check all the belt alignment marks. 4)CHECK VALVE TIMINGNothing was removed, so the engine timing never changed. 5)INSTALL TIMING BELT GUIDEThe cup side facing outward, smooth side towards the belt. 6)INSTALL NO. 1 TIMING BELT COVER AND STARTER WIRE BRACKETInspect the cover gasket to make sure it is still in usable condition. Torque on the cover bolts is a very slight 80 in. lbs. 7)INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEYThe Toyota FSM shows the crankshaft pulley bolt as a replacement item. We reused it on this truck. It's interesting to note that in the FSM timing belt illustration and text, the torque for the bolt is specified at 217 ft. lbs., but the illustration in the water pump section shows 184 ft. lbs. I found an earlier FSM that has 184 ft. lbs., so my guess is that somewhere between the T-100 model and the Tacoma, the torque was increased. This truck was torqued to 184 and hasn't had any problems. 8)INSTALL THE FAN BRACKETAnd the PS pump adjusting assembly. 9)INSTALL NO. 2 TIMING BELT COVERInspect the cover gasket to make sure it is still in usable condition. Torque on the cover bolts is a very slight 80 in. lbs. 10)INSTALL OIL DIPSTICK AND GUIDEMake sure the o-ring is in place to seal the dipstick tube. Install the alternator adjusting bracket. 1)INSTALL A/C COMPRESSOR BRACKETTorque to 35 ft. lbs. We didn't remove this. 12)TEMPORARILY INSTALL FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND FAN PULLEYSTemporary because it's not torqued yet. We found it better to do the next step before this one. 13)INSTALL NO. 2 FAN SHROUDWhich is the lower piece. We just installed the whole shroud before installing the fan. 14)INSTALL AND ADJUST THE ALTERNATOR BELTIf you have the supercharger, follow the info in disassembly step number 7. 15)TIGHTEN FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND FAN PULLEYTorque to a very slight 65 in. lbs. 16)CONNECT A/C COMPRESSOR TO ENGINEInstall and adjust the belt. Torque to 18 ft. lbs. This was not removed, so it didn't have to be installed, but the belt had to be adjusted. 17)CONNECT PS PUMP TO ENGINEInstall and adjust the belt. Torque to 31 ft. lbs. 18)CONNECT THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE 19)FILL ENGINE WITH COOLANT 20)START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS 21)INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER 22)PERFORM ROAD TEST 23)RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL4x4wire.cm
How much is a no seat belt ticket from a state trooper in Alabama?
It depends on what county you are stopped in. Shelby County is $31.
