How do you replace a clutch in a front wheel drive car?

Answer 1

The clutch assembly is bolted to the engine flywheel and is sandwiched between the engine and gearbox so you'll need to separate the two to gain access. It's actually separating them that is the bulk of the job as unbolting the clutch assembly and bolting on a new one is a quick and easy job. I won't go into lots of detail as the exact procedure varies between makes and models, but generally it goes something like this:

1) Disconnect battery and reverse light switch wiring from gearbox

2) Slacken and disconnect clutch cable from the release arm, or if hydraulically operated, unbolt the slave cylinder and tie up out of the way

3) Remove stuff in the engine bay so you've got access around the front, top and back of gearbox (e.g. battery tray, air filter housing, etc.)

4) Slacken wheel nuts on both front wheels, chock rear wheels and jack up the front end of the car. Remove both front wheels.

5) Remove split pin (if fitted) and undo bottom balljoint nut from lower suspension arm/hub carrier assembly on both sides. Separate arm from hub carrier assembly so that it can swing outwards, limited by position of the steering linkage

6) Drain gear oil from gearbox and then lever the inner CV joints out of the gearbox. It's important that after removing one CV joint you insert something like a broom handle or offcut of plastic piping into the differential pinion before removing the CV joint on the other side otherwise the pinions can fall into the gearbox requiring it to be dismantled to retrieve!!! The broom handle/piping keeps the pinions in place so make sure it doesn't come out

7) Put a clean plastic carrier bag over the splined end of each CV joint and secure with an elastic band so that it doesn't get dirt/grit stuck to it. Tie up out of the way of the gearbox and so that the driveshafts aren't straining the outer CV joints.

8) Disconnect the gear selector linkage (several types used so refer to your workshop manual for specific instructions)

9) Place a block of wood under the gearbox end of the engine's sump (oil pan) and jack under the wood to just take the weight of the engine

10) Disconnect wiring from the starter motor and then unbolt and remove. A few cars do not need this to be removed to detach the gearbox but is most cases it needs to come off

11) Slacken all the bolts holding the gearbox bell-housing to the engine block. Remove any flywheel cover plates that may be fitted to the engine block (usually underneath and possibly on the rear)

12) Remove any mountings securing the gearbox to the body. If there's a cross member beneath the gearbox/engine then this may need to be removed too. There may also be a mounting on the rear of the engine to the bulkhead - this can be left alone if it isn't attached to the gearbox. AT THIS POINT THE ENGINE IS SUPPORTED SOLELY BY THE JACK/WOOD AND PROBABLY ONE MOUNTING SO BE CAREFUL NOT TO DISTURB THE JACK OR ALLOW THE ENGINE TO ROLL OFF IT

13) The gearbox should now only be supported by the bolts and dowels holding it to the engine block. Place another jack under the gearbox and raise so that it takes the weight of the gearbox without lifting it or the engine.

14) Remove all the bolts from the bell-housing to engine block. Pull the gearbox away from the engine block so that there is clear gap between the two. It may be necessary to remove plastic shields or other bracketry to give room for the gearbox to move away from the engine.

15) Lower the gearbox under the car, being careful that it doesn't roll off the jack and that the engine is still held in position by it's jack and any mounting left attached.

You can now replace the clutch assembly (don't forget the release bearing attached to the release arm of the gearbox!) and refit. Don't forget to refill the gearbox with the correct grade oil once the job is completed and the car is back on all four wheels.