Jeep Cherokee

How do you replace a hub on a 94 Jeep Cherokee once the bolts have been taken off is there a trick?

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2015-07-15 21:04:26
2015-07-15 21:04:26

There are a couple of ways to do it. First I assume that the bolts you are talking about are the (3)12 point head bolts that go through the knuckle to hold the bearing hub on.

If the hub has never been replaced, then chances are it is likely frozen in the knuckle or on the shaft spline. I am assuming you have removed the 36 millimeter spindle nut, cotter pin and retainer at the wheel side of the hub. If you haven't, then this is what you need to do. The spindle nut is torqued at 175 foot pounds which is quite tight. You can do the following to remove it: (a) You will need a air or electric impact wrench and a 36 millimeter socket to loosen it.

(b) Do not remove the (3) bolts holding the hub on. With the wheel still bolted on the car and still on the ground,loosen the nut a few turns (do not remove it)using a 1/2 in breaker bar and the socket.

OK.....Raise the vehicle. Remove the wheel. Back off the spindle nut about 3/4 of the way out so that it is flush with the edge of the thread on the spline. Remove the (3) bolts that hold the hub on the knuckle. You will need a 13 millimeter or 1/2 inch TWELVE POINT socket to do this. I suggest the use of a 1/2 drive socket and the breaker bar to loosen these bolts. Back out these bolts about 3/16 of an inch.

Now here is where you find out if the hub is stuck on the knuckle or on the spline. Take a 5lb hammer and tap the backside of the flange where the wheel studs are. DO NOT HIT THE FLANGE TO HARD. Rotate the flange as you do this so that you are hitting different spots. The hub should start to move away from the knuckle. If it does, remove the three hub bolts and the 36 millimeter splindle nut and continue the removal procedure. Once the hub is off make sure you clean out the area in the knuckle where the hub sits in/on with a wire brush or coarse sandpaper or emery cloth. Do the same to the hub. (If you are reusing it.) Use some a light coating of grease or anti sieze compound in the knuckle recess and on the seating area of the hub. Reinstall the hub and bolts. Torque the bolts to 75 foot pounds. Install spindle nut and torque to 175 foot pounds. Install spindle nut retainer and cotter pin. (You may have to turn the nut a little to get the cotter pin to go in.

A trick that I and others have used if tapping on the flange doesn't loosen the hub away from the knuckle. Leave the hub bolts on but backed out about 3/16 of an inch. Leave the spindle nut on but backed off 1/4 inch. Put the wheel and the lug nuts back on. (Lug nuts don't have to be super tight.) Lower the wheel until the wheel is on the ground. Go and turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of times. Raise the vehicle and check to see if the hub moved. If it did, proceed with the removal of the hub as described.

If all else fails, you will need a (4 ton) two or three jaw puller ( can borrow from an Autozone) to grab the hub wheel flange and separate it away from the spindle shaft/ steering knuckle. An impact wrench helps with the puller but I have done it with a breaker bar and a socket. Make sure you wedge a bar between the whell suds to keep the wheel flange from turning while using the puller.

GOOD LUCK.

P.S. It helps if you use PB Blaster or other penetrating oil on the hub spline area and where the three ears of the hub sit against the knuckle before attemping to remove the hub. This can save a lot of time if the hub is stuck. Keep spraying it and LET IS SOAK. Sometimes the hub just pops off after using it.

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