ok..first off, this is much more difficult that it should be. I was quoted $550 to have a mechanic do this job. Considering that the starter itself is only $100, that means the labor alone would cost $450. I laughed at the machanic and told him that I would do it myself. After about five hours under the rig, I began to wonder if the $550 would have been a bargin. ok, lets get to it...Do yourself a favor. The day before you start this job, get a can of PB Blaster and spray the hell out of the exhaust manifold heat shield mounting bolts. This heat shield must come off. The bolts are probably corroded/rusted in place by years of high temperatures and filth. Before you start the job, start the rig up and let it get warm. This allows the manifold to expand and the PB Blaster to penetrate the bolts holes. IMPORTANT: You DO NOT want to break these 10MM bolts! Once you have removed the exhaust manifold heat sheild, you can get to the starter solinoid and the electrical connections. First, disconnect the battery and then the two wires that connect to the starter. Next, disconnect the wire that connects to the oil pressure sending unit. (located just above the starter and to the left of the oil filter.) Next, you must remove the exhaust pipe heat shield. This is a real sun of a bittch..There are three hose clamp like devices that hold the two halves of the shield together. Chances are, the heads of those 10MM bolts are facing the firewall making it impossible to access with a socket. I got mine out by using a 10MM open end..having to turn it over each time I gripped the bolt just to get about a 1/16th of a turn each time. Finally I was able to get them loose enough that I was able to spin them around so I could access the bolt heads a little easier. The remaining mounting bolts present only a small amout of discomfort and frustration.Once you have this shield off, you can get to the upper starter mount bolt with a 14MM socket and swivel extention. the transmission cooler lines and the transmission linkage will fight you each step of the way but it can be removed. The bottom starter bolt is a touch more difficult as the crossmember and the cooler lines prevent you from getting a socket on the bolt. I used a 14MM offset box end wrench to get it off. You will probably need some sort of breaker bar to gain leverage because the bolts are on tight! Next, drain your oil and remove the oil filter because there is no way to remove the starter with the oil filter in place. (this is ignorant and whoever designed the way this is set up should be executed). Once you have completed all of these steps, you can then snake the starter out of the vehicle from the top. You will need to wrestle it past your fuel filter, your fuel lines and various assorted bullshiit to get it out but it it can be done. If you can get the dammmed thing out, it becomes obvious what it takes to get it back in...basically just reverse the tasks and you'll have it..Good luck!...and have fun making up all the new cuss words that you will use while doing this miserable task...
The 2012 Nissan Pathfinder has a 5-speed automatic.
The 2006 Nissan Pathfinder has a 5-speed automatic.
The 2005 Nissan Pathfinder has a 5-speed automatic.
Replace the bushings in the track bars that connect the rear axle to the vehicle.
The 2002 Nissan Pathfinder has a 4-speed automatic.
No, this Pathfinder does not have a speedometer cable. It has a speed sensor on the transfer case.
The 2001 Nissan Pathfinder has a 5-speed manual.
The 2003 Nissan Pathfinder has a 4-speed automatic.
The 2004 Nissan Pathfinder has a 4-speed automatic.
The 2008 Nissan Pathfinder has a 5-speed automatic.
The 2007 Nissan Pathfinder has a 5-speed automatic.
The 2011 Nissan Pathfinder has a 5-speed automatic.