It would help to know the year, make, model, and engine size as most cars take different routes to remove and replace
( r & r) an alternator. First, you need to know if the bolts and nuts are standard or metric so as to supply yourself with the proper tools. Even before that you can take the car to Wal-Mart or other light repair shops in your area to have the battery and alternator diagnosed before you start the r&r of the alternator. Even some auto parts stores will test the charging system for free. That is the very first place one would start, unless you know as a fact the alternator is bad. After the tools, you must remove either the negative battery cable or the positive battery cable. That is why the year, etc. of the vehicle is important. Then remove all the wires attached to the alternator. One should be a plug in and the other will have a nut attaching other wires to it. Next, the alternator belt has to come off. This is either a single, specific belt or a serpentine belt that attaches all the vehicles accessories. If it is the serpentine type you only have to loosen the belt just enough to slip the belt off the alternator pully. There is a large nut which is on a idler pully. This is what keeps the serpentine belt tight. The idler pully is a spring loaded pully that is smooth with no teeth. It is slick and chrome looking. It is mostly found at the top of the serpentine belt assembly in just about every vehicle. Then you will loosen the two or three bolts/nuts holding the alternator to the mounting bracket. Replace the old alternator with the new one and reverse the sequence of events. I would still like to know the 411 I asked in the first sentence. That way I could do a better job of guiding you through this process. Also, buy some gloves, the kind doctors wear. It will really save your hands. Believe me, I know. I will look for you to return comment. I am not sure how to use this website, yet. I just logged on tonight to ask a question about my computer; I have an open port that was previously closed. Hope I helped, Robert.
By completely removing the wiper tray assembly you can then gain easy access to the alternator. The wiper assembly is held on by aprox 6 screws and one electrical connection.
The voltage regulator in a Volvo alternator has been built into the alternator since the 70's. To replace it, you would have to remove the alternator and disassemble it. Then the regulator can be accessed. It is probably soldered in, so you will need a good soldering gun and the ability to de-solder and solder. It would be quicker and easier to replace the alternator assembly with a remanufactured unit. massvolvoman
I have a 97 Ford probe and when I had to replace my alternator... I had to pulled the passenger tire off and pull the whole assembly apart so I could get the alternator.. There are 2 bolts to loosen up and pull the belt out slide the alternator down by the exhaust and pull it out by the CV axle
It should have a spring loaded automatic tensioner, if the spring is broke replace the tensioner arm assembly
how do you replace the alternator in a 97buick skylark
Charge it, replace it,test the alternator,Charge it, replace it,test the alternator,
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To replace the alternator belt on a Citroen Berlingo, you have to locate the tensioner. You can loosen it to replace it.