How do you replace the front wheel bearings and hub on a 1998-2003 Windstar?

Answer 1

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU START. 2001 WINDSTAR You do not have to touch the strut or the lower ball joint. And you don't need a BFHOnce you get all the brake stuff and the rotor out of the way you can remove the 30mm nut and pushed the axle shaft back towards the tranny. This allowed room for a shallow 15mm socket and an extension on the top bolt of the hub your removing. I used a hammer gun, sort of like a muffler air chisel, and pushed the main shaft in. and once you remove this bolt, the rest is a piece of cake. Add-on to the above

I like to use a 3 jaw puller to push the axle back away from the steering knuckle/spindle to gain access to the top one of the three 15mm bolts that hold the hub/bearings to the knuckle. (the other 2 are easily accessed anyways!)

The axle never leaves the knuckle opening - just kinda sits there loose when you pound the old bearing/hub out.

The axle nut is 30mm - retighten to 170-225 ft.lbs

The brake caliper mounting bracket takes a 15mm socket and extensions

DO NOT get into all the extra steps listed below - keep it simple.

I also used PB Blast and an air chisel to break the hub out of the spindle. I let it soak over night and then chiseled it out in the morning.

I did this job just yesterday.

Special tools you'll need before you even start

· 30mm socket to remove the hub nut

· Set of spring compressors

· Ball joint separator

· BFH big hammer

Jack up you car

Take of wheel

Take off calipers and hang it with a wire to protect the hose

Remove your rotor

Take off the abs sensor and hang that with your caliper- or disconnect wiring and leave attached to knuckle

Take off the hub nut (30 mm)

Now you are going to have to get that whole freakin knuckle off so here is where it starts getting fun.

Go ahead and compress the spring using those spring compressors then remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the strut in place.

Separate your ball joints

Take out the bolt in the bottom pivot joint that is under the knuckle. It has to come all the way out so you can lift off the unit later.

Take of that nut holding that arm that is attached to the strut and bang the hell out of the knuckle with downward strokes with your BFH to get the strut off.

Now to get enough play I went ahead and took out that bolt holding the swing arm to the vans frame.

Now you should be able to pull the unit off the axle. You may have to use a gear puller to do it. I didn't, I just tapped it out gingerly.

Now you nee to remove those three bolts holding the wheel bearing hub assm. Off and put your new one on..

When I started put it back together I had hell getting the strut back in it's hole so I sanded al the paint off that bastard and sand the hole then blew it all off with air and shot it with some wd-40. I had my son jack up the unit with a small scissor jack while I banged on it.

You will have to tighten the hub nut to get the axle splines to suck up in the bearing.

Now just put all you junk back together and get yourself a twelve pack , because buddy, you have certainly earned it.

(Note: the process of removing the strut is unnecessary, and the job can be done without this step)

The following is the procedure for a 1999 - 2003 Windstar.Purchase front wheel bearing assembly (note that this is an assembly and not just bearings, it comes with hub and bearings together as one piece). (Anywhere from $75-$150)(Make sure you have a socket big enough to remove the axle nut from the front drive axle you are working on)

Jack up vehicle or put on hoist (if you are jacking up the vehicle (Apply Rear Parking Brake), do it on the frame rail and install a Jack Stand for Safety)

Remove hubcap and tire.

Unbolt brake caliper assembly and put off to the side (helps if you bungee cord or wire up to the frame of the van to keep it out of the way).

Remove the 3 torx (45 torx) head bolts holding on your brake rotor, then remove the brake rotor and put off to the side.

Remove the large nut on the axle spindle (may require pneumatic impact wrench or large ratchet (I used a 3/4 drive ratchet)).

Remove lower ball joint pinch bolt.

Use a large pry bar to push down on the lower control arm assembly and pull the hub assembly out towards you.

You will have to remove the drive axle from the hub assembly but not from the transmission (unfortunately the top hub bolt is behind the CV axle head). (the book says to use a puller to push the axle out of the hub assembly and not to use a hammer, generally this is so the user does not screw up (with a hammer) the threads on the axle shaft, but if you thread your axle nut on the axle, so that it is flush with the end of the axle, you can then use a hammer and block of wood to push the axle out of the hub).

Once the axle is free of the hub assembly, bungee cord or wire it out of the way as you did with the brake caliper assembly.

Remove the three bolts holding the hub assembly in place (note that these are lock-tite in place and you will not touch them with a low end impact wrench, it is easier to use a long handled 1/2 drive ratchet and socket) and push out the old hub assembly from the steering arm (it may seem like it is pressed in, but it is most likely just rust and corrosion that is holding it in place, make sure your new part is the same as your old part and hammer the old bearing hub assembly out).

Once you have removed the old bearing assembly, clean up the opening with a wire brush, install the new bearing assembly (only goes in one way) and use removable locktite on the threads of the three bolts (as i could not find any torque specs. on this, you will have to use your best judgment, but I recommend not installing any of these bolts with an impact or air ratchet, as you will not be able to feel how tight they are getting).

Unwire and push the axle assembly back through the new hub assembly, this should go through easily once the splines are lined up. Tighten axle nut with ratchet to appropriate spec. (unable to define, use best judgment)

Reinstall the lower ball joint and pinch bolt.

Reinstall rotor with three torx head bolts (note when I did this, the thread in the new hub assembly was standard (SAE) not metric and I had to chase the threads with an 8 x 1.25 metric tap before reinstalling the rotor bolts).

Reinstall the brake caliper with the two bolts (put removable locktite on these bolts and hand tighten with ratchet).

Reinstall the tire, hand tighten lug nuts and install hub cap, and complete final road test.

Biggest tip to give you, work safely and take your time, don't force anything, use a penetrating fluid on rusted fasteners before trying to remove and allow enough time to complete the task. (This is a job that can be done by a novice, I am a journeyman automotive technician, but I have been out of this trade for the past 13 years)

Note: I could not find any information on this when I needed it yesterday, the Haynes manual was sketchy at best and only had the axle removal process, so I am answering this question so that it may help someone else. The entire process took about 2 hours on the driveway, and it would have gone quicker, but I had not done one of these before.

Wheel hub troubleshootI had a little trouble removing the wheel hub on my 2000 Windstar. Be sure to give it a good spray of WD-40. I believe there is 3 bolts you will have to remove and from there take yourself a mallet and hit from behind a few times should come loose. Good luck

Autozone.com has detailed instructions for this procedure on the 1999-2003 Windstar - see "Related Link" below.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.