How do you take off hub of bicycle rim?

Answer 1

Loosen 2 outer bolts on the center hub - wheel should pull out of fork

Leave it near East Croydon Station, the front wheel will disappear.

There are at least four different ways of attaching the front wheel, so how you go about removing it would depend on which one you have.

Answer 2

The back wheel can either be clamped on by a quick-release(QR) skewer, or screwed on by a pair of axle nuts. The QRs can be undone by hand while the nuts needs a wrench before the back wheel can come out. But it doesn't end there. If the bike has rim brakes the brake wire usually needs to be relaxed or unhooked somehow before the wheel can come out, or the tire might jam on the brake pads. If the bike has disc brakes you usually don't have to do anything about them. For hydraulic brakes it's important not to pull on the brake lever while the disc is out of the caliper. For drum braked bikes there's a wire and a reaction strut that has to be loosened. Coaster brakes (brakes that come on as you pedal backwards.) also have a reaction arm that has to be loosened. For geared bikes there are also the gear-changing mechanism that has to be taken care of. Bikes with external gears (several sprockets on the rear wheel) should be put in the highest gear(smallest sprocket) and then one usually has to hold the derailer away by hand to get the wheel out. Bikes with internal gears have a shifter wire that has to come off. Pay close attention to the position of the rear axle and how the shifter wire is attached so that you can put it back together w/o disturbing the adjustment. If it's a single-speed there are obviously no gears that has to be considered. Some bikes have special brackets to hold the rear axle in its correct position. These are called chain tensioners and has to be relaxed to get enough slack to remove the chain from its sprocket and the wheel from the bike. http://www.parktool.com/repair/ is a very helpful site. Point to the area of the bike that's giving you trouble and click.

Answer 3

You unscrew them. Do note that the left pedal unscrews clockwise, it has a reverse thread. Pedals can be stuck good and tight, so make sure to use an one-size wrench and not an adjustable one. Some haven't got wrench flats, these usually unscrew by an Allen key from the inside. Don't forget the reverse threading on the left!
Pedals can be installed and removed one of two ways depending on the pedal.

If you're lucky, the back of the pedal spindle has a place for a 10MM Allen wrench. Most newer pedals have this. Just insert a 10MM Allen wrench and turn. Remember: Right hand side is right hand thread, left hand side is left hand thread.

If you don't have a 10MM fitting on the back of your pedal, you may see two flat sides to the pedal spindle up against the crank arm. These flat sides are 15MM apart. Unfortunately, a typical 15MM wrench doesn't fit between the pedal body and the crank arm. This is why there are "pedal wrenches". A pedal wrench is very much a 15MM open end wrench, but is made thin enough to fit between the pedal and the crank arm.

Answer 4

There are a few different designs out there, and not knowing what you've got the answer is too long to type in here: Check out www.sheldonbrown.com, www.parktool.com or www.bicycletutor.com and one of them will probably cover what you're asking for.

Answer 5

Usually you don't. When they get gritty and start causing trouble some people will try to flush them out and relube them, but most people will simply replace them. Opening one up is rather tricky and will usually require either mad skills with a drift punch or some quite special tools.

Answer 6

With some difficulty. For the most common design you will need a set of special tools called cone wrenches. WIth a cone wrench to hold the cone you can use a normal wrench to undo the locknut, and with that one out of the way you can pull the cone after which the axle will slip right out. As the axle comes out, so will the ball bearings - so do this over a bucket or something.

Do note that different designs require different methods. Internally geared hubs for instance will require more than what's described above. www.sheldonbrown.com has lots of info.

Answer 7

1. deflate tire completely
2. push the inner lips of the tire towards center of the rim
3. wrangle one lip over the edge of the rim, and peel back from that position. Best is if you can do it by hand only, but often some kind of tool is required. The best IMO are steel cored plastic tire levers. You may need more than one. Insert one between one lip of the tire, heave lever over the rim edge and hook outer end of lever around a spoke. Insert another lever maybe 4-8" away and repeat. This should let you get your fingers under the lip and pull the rest of that side of the tire off. If not, insert a 3rd lever and try again. Once one edge is done it's usually no problem pulling the other one off. If you haven't got tire levers a wide bladed screwdriver will do in a pinch, but they're prone to scratching the rim and puncturing the tube. Something a bit more rounded is preferable. A spoon handle can work fine.
4. If the tire is to be scrapped you may simply cut it off. Do note that you will need pliers for the lip/bead, and take care not to nick the tube, if you want to keep it.

Answer 8

with a wrench righty tighty lefty loosey..lol it depends front or back the front is just 2 nutts..if its the back tire take the nutts off and the chain

Answer 9

only way to get the hub out is to either cut or unscrew all the spokes.