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I have a 1996 Ranger, which, I believe, has the same frame as an explorer of that same model year. So I'm going to tell you what I did, and maybe it will work for you.

First, you need to go buy the replacement, because you're going to want to have it handy before you take the old one off. Check at your auto parts store for the brand and model. Mine cost me, I think, about $8 at Walmart.

Second, while you are at the auto parts store, ask about a "compression tool". Though this comes in different sizes, they should be able to tell you which size you need when you give them the make and model of your vehicle. I bought one that had two ends for two different sizes. If they can, have them show you, with the new filter, how the compression tool works, because it's difficult to explain.

You are also going to need a pair of pliers, the longer the handle, the better, and you may find a long, flat-head screwdriver useful.

Third, though this is not an essential part of the operation, I highly recommend you find an old piece of carpet, or something, to lay on while you are under your truck. If it works for you like it worked for me, you're going to be there a while, and you want to be as comfortable as possible. You might also think about jacking your truck up, and when I say "think about it", I mean REALLY think about it. Sure, it will give you more room to work. But you're going to be UNDER that thing, and if it slips off the jack, you're dead! If you do it this way, make damn sure to your parking brake is fully engaged. And it's best to use jack stands, rather than just a the jack. Or better yet, wheel ramps. Blocks in fron of and behind all wheels on the ground is also a damned good idea. And while I'm on the subject of safety, understand that you are very likely to be exposed to gasoline dripping from the filter or the lines. So no smoking.

Before you slide under your truck, take the cap off your gas tank. This will relieve any pressure in your gas lines and make your task easier.

As you've probably figured out by now, the fuel filter is on the underside of your truck. Thankfully, it's not in the gas tank itself, as in some vehicles. To locate the filter, slide your head under the driver's side, at right about the front edge of the front door. Locate the left frame member, which runs almost the entire length of your truck, roughly parallel to, the left side of the truck. It's about a foot from the edge. The cross-section of this frame member looks like a square bracket [ It's about 4-5 inches tall and 2 inches wide. Once you locate this frame member, keep sliding under your truck until you can see the INSIDE of the member, the side facing the center of the truck. When you can see that, look up and down its length until you see the old fuel filter, which is shaped exactly like the new one you just bought (assuming you got the right model). Of course, the old one will be quite a bit dirtier.

Now, at this point, you are going to realize that it is not exactly easy to get to this fuel filter. Yes, you can touch it, but it's going to be hard to manipulate it in the tight space. Reposition yourself as best you can to access the filter.

Now, note that there are two fuels lines connected to the filter. Both of these will have to be disconnected. But note also that there is a wide clamp holding the filter in place. It may be easier to manipulate the filter if you first remove it from this clamp. You can try any of the remaining steps both ways and see what works for you.

As for which line to remove first, I'm not sure. I know that I removed the line from the tank first, and it was fairly easy, and didn't even require the use of the compression tool. But the line to the engine was incredibly difficult to get off, and I wondered, in hindsight, whether it would have been easier if I had taken the line to the engine off first. Anyway, the point is, you have to get both lines off, and at least one of them is going to require the use of the compression tool.

If it works like mine, the tank line will slide off relatively easily. Grasp the stem on the fuel filter with your pliers and hold the line with your other hand, and pull apart. Twisting will help. If this doesn't work, see if your compression tool will help, as explained in the next paragraph.

Now, the line going to the engine. This was a real bear for me, even with the compression tool. I'm going to try to explain the structure of this connection and how the tool works. The line to the engine has a female end, with the male-end stem of the fuel filter stuck inside it. The female coupling on the line has a "compression ring" inside it that locks tightly around the male stem of the filter. The harder you pull on that filter, the tighter that compression ring gets, and you'll NEVER get it out like that.

That's why God gave us the compression tool. Look closely at this tool. Though it comes in different shapes, its basic construction is two halves of a short tube that, when folded together, form a complete tube. It will also have some kind of handle that you use as a lever. What you have to do is enclose put the tool so that the two halves of the tube are on either side of the fuel filter stem, then fold the two halves together so they completely surround the stem. Then slide the tool up the stem until it enters the rim of the female coupling on the engine line. It should fit inside the rim. Now, here's the hard part. You have to apply enough pressure to this compression tool, in the direction of the coupling, to slide that compression ring back, futher up inside the coupling. As it goes back, the internal geometry of the coupling pushes it away from the stem, so you have room to slide it out. Now, that was pretty easy to SAY, but it's a pain in the butt to actually DO. First, you really need about 3 hands to do this. You need to hold the coupling with one hand and the compression tool with the other, as you push them together. But then, when and IF you can get compression ring forced back, you need another hand to pull the fuel filter stem out. Problem is, two people can't get under there at the same time. And, the fact of the matter is, it isn't really easy for you to get both of YOUR hands in place, because of all the obtructions that are in there. Then you have the issue of a lack of leverage on your compression tool. You need to be exerting force toward the coupling, but the handle of the tool is 90 degrees off from that angle. This whole thing is just a real pain in the butt, and you can't understand it until you're under there trying to get it done. And the whole time, gasoline is dripping in your face. I'm telling you, unless you're really broke, you're better off paying an auto shop to do this for you.

Anyway, I busted my knuckles for THREE HOURS trying to get the compression fitting loose, and finally just GAVE UP because it got too dark to see. I came back the next day to try again. I slid under the truck and grabbed the filter and just pulled it back a little so I could see the fitting, and the damned thing came right off in my hand. Almost zero effort, like pulling a thumbtack out of a cork board. All I can figure is that there was some huge negative pressure holding everything together, and that pressure released slowly overnight. Maybe cooler temperatures helped, or maybe it was just time. But one way or another, it came off really easy after twelve hours of just sitting there. So maybe that's the thing to do. Just take the tank line off, let it sit overnight, THEN try the engine line.

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Q: How do you take the fuel filter out of a 1996 ford explorer?
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