You want to test resistance to see if there is a break in the windings. Set your voltmeter to Ohms.
usually they do but sometimes it will be built in to the main speaker
A person can test drive a Saturn Crossover by visiting their local Saturn dealer. The person who is wanting to test drive the vehicle will be require to provide a legal driver's license before being allowed to test drive the car.
It's a CROSSOVER, they are almost always built into the speaker.
The subwoofer's crossover network??? best match Roger S. 487
The factory amp is actually located on each speaker like a crossover.
A subwoofer is a speaker. If you want to know if is possible to convert it into a full-range speaker, then yes, it is. You have to add a tweeter and crossover to the box, but the complexity in doing this and the quality of the results will show that it isn't worth it.
To access the crossover components in a Leak sandwich speaker: 1. Undo the nut in the centre of the rear panel - use a very large screwdriver to do this. 2. Unclip the front grille. 3. Undo the retaining screws of the bass driver. 4. Lift out the bass driver. The crossover components are now visible on the block of wood that fits between the rear of the bass driver and the rear panel of the enclosure.
The SE's had an internal shelf / splitter removed to improve the bass responce and they tweaked with the crossover.
A crossover separates the high frequencies from the low frequencies, usually around 2000Hz, so you can send the highs to a tweeter or smaller speaker and the lows to a woofer. For some reason it sounds better that way than sending the full audio spectrum to both speakers.
you have to get an amp, crossover or an amp with a crossover built in and all the gear to install it like speaker wire power cable patch cords remote wire bow for the subwoofer that will fit the truck
Use a multimeter or digital multimeter and set it to the ohmmeter mode. Put the test leads on the speaker terminals. It won't be perfect, but if it says 1.8 ohms or so then it's a 2 ohm speaker.
Hi, That's your speaker protector system. When something's not right (usually a shorted speaker wire) or the speaker itself is defective, it senses it and stops the receiver from applying power to the speakers to keep it from burning out the power amplifiers. Hope that helps, Cubby FROM DarthMurdicide: The absolute easiest way to find out if it is a wiring problem without having to disconnect and reconnect wiring on the backs of the speakers or the receiver is to use the TEST TONE function to test the individual speakers. It is a tone that to me is not stressful to the speakers, so I put the volume to MAX for the test and check each individual speaker. If it is a wiring problem, when you get to the speaker that is either blown or the wiring is grounded out somewhere (either at the back of the speaker or the back of the receiver, or somewhere in between), the PROTECTOR message will light up. I verified this procedure last night. I did the TEST TONE's for each individual speaker on MAX volume, and sure enough when I got to the surrond back left speaker, the PROTECTOR mesage came on. I pulled the in-wall speaker out, and sure enough the tweeter wiring terminal had been bent back during installation and was touching the crossover cap, causing a short. I bent it back, and voila, no more PROTECTOR message.