Starters and Ignition Systems

How do you test the ignition coil in a car?

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2014-10-07 02:15:08
2014-10-07 02:15:08

You can test the ignition coil on a car by using a multimeter. A bad ignition coil can be the cause of a car not starting.

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1999 Alero how do i test ignition coil pack

You cannot test it with a diagram. You will need a multimeter to test the coil. Click the link.

Yes, a bad coil will prevent the ignition from firing and the engine will not start.

without the spring coil the electricity will not be supplied to the ignition of the car.

Remove it and test it. A good service manual for your car should tell you what to look for. If you don't have an ohm meter to test it, remove the coil and take it to a reputable auto parts retailer in your area.

A 1995 Geo Metro ignition coil is tested by measuring the resistance across the coil. If it exceeds the manufacturer's recommendation, it must be replaced.

test ignition coil,ignition module,pick-up coil,electronic spark control,and knock sensor

The engine will either not start, or run poorly if the coil is bad.

Literally if u touch the ignition coil on terminals u get shock that is back E.M.F. when the spark plug fires

When an ignition coil goes bad the car will not run right, or not at all. An intermittent coil will cause shudder, or a jerking motion. When the coil has no output then the cylinder that the coil feeds cant burn the fuel and cause power.

The ignition coil on a car ranges between 3 and 5 amps, which it gets from a 12 volt battery. The battery produces DC current though the coil The coil can transform the low voltage of the batter to thousands of volts that are needed to start the car.

Then ignition of the fuel/air mixture in the cylinders will cease, and you won't be going anywhere.

You test an ignition coil by checking the resistance with an ohm meter. The resistance values should be something like, Primary winding .3 to 1 ohms, Secondary winding 8,000 to 11,500 ohms.

A broken coil spring will cause the effected corner of the vehicle to drop. A broken ignition coil will cause the engine to misfire (coil on plug application) or cease to run.

coil, wire, ignition control module

The car may misfire or not accelerate properly

Hope This Help.TESTING Ignition Coil TestThe ignition coil must be diagnosed separately from the rest of the ignition system.Primary resistance is measured between the two primary (low voltage) coil terminals, with the coil connector disconnected and the ignition switch off. Primary resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms.On Dura Spark ignitions, the secondary resistance is measured between the BATT and high voltage (secondary) terminals of the ignition coil with the ignition OFF , and the wiring from the coil disconnected. Secondary resistance must be 8,000-11,500 ohms.If resistance tests are okay, but the coil is still suspected, test the coil on a coil tester by following the test equipment manufacturer's instructions for a standard coil. If the reading differs from the original test, check for a defective wiring harness.Ignition Coil Primary Circuit SwitchingInsert a small straight pin in the wire which runs from the coil negative (-) terminal to the TFI module, about 1 in. (25mm) from the module.WARNINGThe pin must not touch ground!Connect a 12 VDC test lamp between the straight pin and an engine ground.Crank the engine, noting the operation of the test lamp. If the test lamp flashes, proceed to the next test. If the test lamp lights but does not flash, proceed to the Wiring Harness test. If the test lamp does not light at all, proceed to the Primary Circuit Continuity test.Ignition Coil ResistanceRefer to the General Testing for an explanation of the resistance tests. Replace the ignition coil if the resistance is out of the specification range.Ignition Coil Secondary VoltageDisconnect the secondary (high voltage) coil wire from the distributor cap and install a spark tester between the coil wire and ground.Crank the engine. A good, strong spark should be noted at the spark tester. If spark is noted, but the engine will not start, check the spark plugs, spark plug wiring, and fuel system. If there is no spark at the tester: Check the ignition coil secondary wire resistance; it should be no more than 5,000 ohms per foot. Inspect the ignition coil for damage and/or carbon tracking. With the distributor cap removed, verify that the distributor shaft turns with the engine; if it does not, repair the engine as required. If the fault was not found proceed to the Ignition Coil Primary Voltage test.Ignition Coil Primary VoltageAttach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the distributor base.Turn the ignition switch ON and connect the positive voltmeter lead to the negative (-) ignition coil terminal. Note the voltage reading and turn the ignition OFF . If the voltmeter reading is less than 90 percent of the available battery voltage, inspect the wiring between the ignition module and the negative (-) coil terminal, then proceed to the Ignition Coil Supply Voltage test.Ignition Coil Supply VoltageAttach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the distributor base.Turn the ignition switch ON and connect the positive voltmeter lead to the positive (+) ignition coil terminal. Note the voltage reading then turn the ignition OFF . If the voltage reading is at least 90 percent of the battery voltage, yet the engine will still not run; first, check the ignition coil connector and terminals for corrosion, dirt, and/or damage; second, replace the ignition switch if the connectors and terminal are okay.Connect any remaining wiring.REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Carbureted EnginesDisconnect the battery ground.Disconnect the two small and one large wires from the coil.Disconnect the condenser connector from the coil, if equipped.Unbolt and remove the coil.Installation is the reverse of removal.Fuel Injected EnginesSee Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4Fig. Fig. 1: Disengage the high tension wire by pulling on the connector boot-fuel injected enginesFig. Fig. 2: Separate the wiring harness connection at the coilFig. Fig. 3: Unscrew the coil from its bracket mountFig. Fig. 4: Remove the coil from the enginePulling on the connector boot, disconnect the high tension lead at the coil.Disconnect the wiring at the ignition coil.Remove the ignition coil-to-bracket attaching screws, then remove the coil.To install:Install the coil, tightening the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).Connect the ignition coil wiring harness and the high tension lead.

let the engine running, lift off the ignition coil one by one after opening the screw...a tick sounds will be heard ... no tick sound and gasoline leak on the plug thread means the ignition coil is busted.

If you are not getting spark to any of the plugs could be coil rotor and/or cap HEI ignition?

it is an ignition problem...could be the ignition switch or the ignition coil if i rember right

The ignition coil is inside the ignition distributor.

Try the ignition control module. Had the same problem with mine $36 part fixed it. The ignition control module is in the distributor and so is the pickup coil, but the ignition coil is by the battery. There is a spark test that can be done. If it was already done and couldn't see a spark, then it could be the ignition coil it self , the ignition wire, or any possible electrical connections.

An ignition coil is an coil that is used to change the volts in a battery to ignite the spark in the spark plug. This is necessary to get the engine to start up and the car to run.

No. The coil provides the spark and the module tells the coil when to spark.


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