White mortar is the same as gray except it has been bleached. White thinset is needed if you are using a light tile with light grout.
Just under outlets and switches and just above vanity so any border is at top of vanity backsplash or more than half of a field tile so it is not an eyesore.
You can tile over existing tile although it isn't reccomended. You would be safer by removing the tile and then installing the new tile. But, if you wanted to tile over existing tile you would have to make sure all the tile is even and not lose. If the tile is lose or uneven it will caused the new tile and grout to crack or pop out.
Tile will start at around $.77 and go up to around $2.50.
I have tiled over cork tiles with ceramic tiles and it worked fine in a bathroom, around a bath. If the current tiles are really well fixed it should be fine.
Tiling around sockets and light switches can be a bit tricky, but with careful planning and attention to detail, you can achieve a professional-looking result. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you tile around sockets and light switches Materials and Tools: Tiles Tile adhesive Tile spacers Tile cutter or wet saw Tile nippers Notched trowel Level Pencil Measuring tape Screwdriver Outlet extenders (if needed) Steps Turn off the Power Before you start, turn off the power to the area where you'll be working. This ensures your safety when dealing with electrical outlets and switches. Remove Outlet and Switch Covers Use a screwdriver to remove the cover plates from the outlets and switches. Prepare the Wall Ensure the wall surface is clean, smooth, and dry. If necessary, patch any holes or imperfections in the wall. Plan the Tile Layout Plan the layout of your tiles, taking into account the position of the outlets and switches. Use a level to draw a reference line to guide your tile installation. Cut Tiles to Fit Measure and mark the tiles for cutting around the outlets and switches. A tile cutter or wet saw can be used for straight cuts, while tile nippers can be used for more precise cuts. Apply Tile Adhesive Use a notched trowel to apply tile adhesive to a small section of the wall. Press the tiles into the adhesive, leaving space for the outlets and switches. Insert Tile Spacers: Insert tile spacers between the tiles to maintain even gaps for grout. Ensure that the tiles are level as you work. Cut Openings for Outlets and Switches Place the tiles around the outlets and switches, leaving a small gap for expansion. Use a tile saw or nippers to carefully cut out the openings for the outlets and switches. Tile Around Outlets and Switches Continue tiling around the outlets and switches, adjusting the tile layout as needed. Be precise in your cuts to achieve a clean and professional appearance. Allow Adhesive to Dry Allow the adhesive to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions before proceeding. Grout the Tiles: Once the adhesive is dry, remove the tile spacers and apply grout between the tiles. Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge. Reinstall Outlet and Switch Covers: After the grout has cured, reinstall the outlet and switch covers. Seal the Grout (Optional): Consider applying a grout sealer to protect the grout lines from moisture and stains. By following these steps, you can achieve a professional-looking tile installation around outlets and switches. Remember to work carefully and take your time to ensure a precise and visually appealing result.
Light switches can be purchased from SparkyDirect, they have a huge range of light switches other websites offering light switches are HomeBase, argos and ebay.
twice the material
It is dependant on whether the switches are in wired in a parallel or series configuration. If the switches are wires in parallel then both switches would have to be off to turn the light bulb off. Either switch could turn the light bulb on. If the switches are wired in series then both switches would have to be on to turn the light bulb on. Either switch could turn the light bulb off.
Modern light switches are made from plastic, copper, and (maybe) coiled steel springs.
In a light switch factory......
Yes, because the light is using 3-way switches. There is always "power" travelling between the switches.
Dimmer switches go bad, more often than regular switches.
The single light will not come on. The traveler legs from the two switches will have to be opened simultaneously if they are not then you will get a flick of light.
the oulets yes the switches would be a no
Mercury tilt switch, Knife switch, Footswitch, Reversing switch, Light switches, Electronic switches
White mortar is the same as gray except it has been bleached. White thinset is needed if you are using a light tile with light grout.