How do you winterise an evinrude 25 hp outboard motor?

Answer 1

Four cycle, Fog the motor as below. Do not put any oil in the gasoline. Do use stabilizer.

Change the motor oil, replace with Evinrude or Johnson, Mercury/Quicksilver or Yamaha or Tohatsu/Nissan outboard 4cycle oil. Do not use standard car motor oils, they are not fortified for the high-humidity environment.

Follow propeller and gear oil procedures as below. Note that newer motors may not have the Phillips screw mentioned in the following instructions.

Applies to any small to medium two-cycle carburetor outboard by Evinrude/Johnson.

You will:

Treat the fuel for storage (protect the carburetor)

Remove propeller

Flush and "fog" the engine with storage oil.

Check/replace spark plugs.

Change lower unit oil- inspect oil for signs of water.

Lubricate pivots and steering.

Lubricate and replace propeller.

Use fresh fuel with standard oil mix. If you can get gas without ethanol, that is great (racing gas or aircraft low-lead). You only need to mix up less than a gallon of gas-oil mix.

Add the recommended amount of gasoline stabilizer. There are several acceptable brands. Stabil is popular and available most everywhere.

Set up your motor so it can run IN water or with a flush attachment. You will not run the motor above idle. Remove the propeller.

Obtain a "fogging oil"- often in an aerosol can. I use Marvel Mystery Oil poured into a spray bottle.

Set the motor up to run, and remove the cowl (cover). Start water and start motor.

NEVER EVER START THE MOTOR WITHOUT WATER. The water pump impeller is rubber and it will be ruined without water to lubricate it. Such destruction will happen in just a second or two.

Start the motor on your stabilized fuel mix. If it is a salt-water run motor, you might want to run it for up to 30 minutes for some internal flushing effect.

After the motor has run at least long enough so that only your fresh fuel is present in the carburetor, take your fogging oil and spray into the carburetor until the motor stalls and quits. There will be smoke.

Shut the water down, disconnect fuel lines. Tilt the motor up. Remove spark plugs. Add a squirt or two of the fogging oil into each cylinder. Instpect the plugs. Clean or replace as you prefer. When installing DO USE a torque wrench. 17 ft/lbs. This is very important. Overtightening will ruin the threads requiring repairs by skilled mechanic. If the spark plug gaskets are replacable, you should use new ones, always.

Tilt the motor up and obtain a proper drain pan for oil. Remove the lower and upper straight screwdriver plugs on the lower unit. One below the "torpedo" and one above. Let the oil drain. OBSERVE. If the oil is "yellow" or even "white", your motor needs service by a skilled mechanic, this color is caused by water leaking into the gearcase. The oil should appear black, or dark brown. As long as it does, move on. IMPORTANT. Do not touch the Philips head screw. It is not a plug. It holds the shift mechanism together. If you take this out the lower unit will have to be completely rebuilt by a skilled mechanic. So don't touch a Phillips head screw.

Fill with OMC-Bombardier Hi-Vis lower unit lubricant. It is a messy job. Fill from the bottom hole, until oil comes out the top hole. Put the plug in the top hole, loosely. Install the bottom plug. Now remove the top plug again, and gently top off the oil. Some workers use a trigger pump type oil can for this step. Finally install the top plug.

Inject a marine quality grease into all grease fittings. Pay attention to the swivel pin section, and make sure it is well greased. If a motor is heavily used in a season, there will be grease loss, and there will be water inside this area. This will lead to rust and eventual "freeze up" of the steering. Add enough grease to push any water out.

Place a severe duty grease on the propeller shaft, such as Mercury/Quicksilver Special 101 (expensive but worth it) or at least "Never Sieze". Reinstall the propeller.

This motor will survive the winter. It should be on the boat, on a stand, or leaned up in a corner in a verticle orientation for storage.

It will be ready to go in the spring, but will start a little hard because of the fogging oil.

If the service schedule is unknown, or it has been a long time (5 seasons is a long time) since the water pump was serviced, get this done by a skilled mechanic, now.