To wipe a lead joint is an art that old time plumbers (when plumbers were plumbers) and not plumbers that know how to to put together plastic pipes with glue. My dad was one of those plumbers. Now i watched him wipe a lead joint a few times. I my self was never to good at it. I did it 2 times in my 30 years as a plumber so here i will tell you an alternate method my dad taught me. I believe you have an existing wipe joint leaking that connects with another type of pipe. 1st u cut out the wiped joint then take a 1" brass union end without nut slide over lead pipe than you flare lead over face of union. With other end of union connect to pipe you are connecting to then put the union together.
What I do is remove the section of leaking lead pipe take a brass nipple Or copper tubing type "L" and wipe a joint using flemico # 1 solder or use a composition of 40 -60 as this gives a longer pasty range to work withUse a non acid type flux and use a ladle and wiping cloth . The key is to make sure both the lead and new pipe is toughly cleaned and fluxedYou don't use lead on water pipes -- You use lead wipeing on waste lines
only -- lead wipeing is very hard to do and there is only a few plumbers left
that can do it -- plumber would have to be around 70 years of age or older
that could do it -- and they would use pvc piping instead of lead -- they would
cut lead out and replace with pvc pipeing. They use to use lead in solder, that
must be what your thinking about?
You can put the steel pipe inside of the lead and melt the lead to seal it. That's takes experience and some talent. You can join them with a rubber sleeve that is the right size on each end and held in place with hose clamps. One cannot solder/ lead wipe lead to steel as one is ferrous and the other non ferrous metal You can lead wipe /solder lead to copper /bronze / brass To join to steel one had to lead wipe a brass nipple (called solder nipple) into the lead pipe and you have either male or female threads and then a union or left and right nipple and coupling to make a proper connection.'' By the way you cannot do a lead poured joint of steel into lead you can put the steel into a cast Iron hub and then use a caulked joint. Also the use of a no hub or a mechanical coupling will not be good for a water or gas tight against a lead pipe as lead is to soft.
Lead wipe a brass nipple into the lead pipe and then use a female adapter x PVC on the brass threads
You can put the steel pipe inside of the lead and melt the lead to seal it. That's takes experience and some talent. You can join them with a rubber sleeve that is the right size on each end and held in place with hose clamps. One cannot solder/ lead wipe lead to steel as one is ferrous and the other non ferrous metal You can lead wipe /solder lead to copper /bronze / brass To join to steel one had to lead wipe a brass nipple (called solder nipple) into the lead pipe and you have either male or female threads and then a union or left and right nipple and coupling to make a proper connection.'' By the way you cannot do a lead poured joint of steel into lead you can put the steel into a cast Iron hub and then use a caulked joint. Also the use of a no hub or a mechanical coupling will not be good for a water or gas tight against a lead pipe as lead is to soft.
When I have to connect copper to lead "D" I usually solder the copper to the lead or wipe a lead joint depending on the diameter To connect copper to cast iron ,.... If there is a hub I caulk the copper directly into the CI with oakum and poured lead (molten) OR one can solder / braze a female adapter fitting and screw the copper into a CI female fitting
A plumbers candle was used to melt wax to wipe down lead pipe .
If the installer is a Master plumber or at least a journeyman and knows how to make a soldered / lead wiped CUP Joint then it should last over 100 years BUT if they did not lead wipe or soldered then your guess is as good as mine.
To make a lead or copper pipe all you need is sheet copper/ lead and either lead wipe /solder /braze the end or if copper use a Pittsburg found in sheet metal shops to make the seam
Presuming you are referring to ABS pipe (the black stuff), for the best joint, you should use the appropriate cleaner - which is basically acetone - before gluing. It is sold in cans right next to the glue. It is unnecessary to roughen the pipe or joint.
All flux has acid so yes u can as long as u wipe it clean after u solder it will cause Ur joint to turn green
If the extisting drain is lead pipe it can be moved about an inch and the use a offset brass floor flange and lead wipe it in place that will give you the 3" you want
If the extisting drain is lead pipe it can be moved about an inch and the use a offset brass floor flange and lead wipe it in place that will give you the 3" you want
pipe, wipe, ripe, gripe, type.